Anybody have a 'description' of how to convert to a pvc valve setup on my 235,
without it 'looking' like anything has been changed from 'stock'? I'd like
things
to 'look' original. I would like the draft tube to remain, even if made to be
non-functionable. In a pvc set-up, could the draft tube be 'plugged' without
harm?
Thanks for you suggestions.
Allen Coblentz
'52 Chevy 3100
ADvent@thuntek.net wrote:
> The best thing to do is do away with the draft tube. I was lucky and found
>PCV.
> It came off my 54 two ton. No more drips, a lot less air pollution, 25 % less
> HC's! Remember, you breath whatever comes out of the tailpipe and draft tube,
>so
> it makes sence to do what we can to keep the air clean, not to mention the
> innards of your engine! My factory or factory looking PCV replaces the draft
> tube and it can even be made into one by drilling the top lid and installing a
> rubber grommet and throw in a PCV and connecting it to a manifold vacuum
>source
> and plugging the down tube. What's your opinion on this Bob ADler?
> Advdesign1@aol.com wrote:
>
> >
> > > Can oil slowly be pulled out of a 235 engine, through the road draft
> > > tube?
> >
> > There also is a baffle inside the draft tube that coalesces oil mist to drop
> > back into crankcase. I never heard of these going bad, but I suppose they
> > could. You would see a few drops under tube on ground. The recommended
> > unofficial method of cleaning a draft tube was to remove it and burn out the
> > sludge. I never did this so don't know how much intenal damage it does. I
> > soak them in lacquer thinner or carb cleaner to dissolve sludge.
> > Bob ADler
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
> --
> New Mexico Jim
> 50 3100 ½ ton
> 51 6??? two ton dump
> 54 two ton for parts
>
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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