All the pros I talked to (many) direct me to a Sherwin Williams product that
phosphates and cleans at the same time. Its in a gallon jug and I spray it
on, wipe it off. I cant remember the part number as I am at home right now,
but it does a great job. You have to completely wipe it off and this takes
time and care to get in all the crevices. Key thing is to wear surgical
gloves while handling the parts and then use a good etching primer
afterwards. I am told that I can now relax completely and get to the repairs
on the parts whenever I have time since the metal is now fully protected
against the elements. Aside from that, I have all parts in a very climate
controlled building where its a constant 76 degrees with low humidity. I'm
happy. :) But then again I am no professional. I am very new to all this. I
do pride myself however on checking with people who DO know before I take
any serious plunges.
Deve
----- Original Message -----
From: <Tom3600@webtv.net>
To: <Passnb4U@aol.com>
Cc: <little-castle-contracting@cadvision.com>; <dkrehbiel@kscable.com>;
<oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 16, 2000 2:45 PM
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Paint Primer
> Mike -
>
> The best way to phosphatize metal is to completely saturate the surface
> with the liquid and letting the excess run off, then let it air dry or
> force dry with some hot air fans.
> Do not sand after because you will just remove the beneficial rust
> inhibitive phosphate coating. You can wipe gently with tack rags prior
> to priming.
>
> -
> Tom Poterack
> '49 Chevy 3600
>
>
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