i don't think so, i was taking it but forgot why so i stopped, hehe just
kidding.
new mexico jim
51 two ton dump
50 ½ ton
Rich Gallagher wrote:
> Grant, does Ginko really work at curing poor memory? I've been told that I
> need help.
> Thanks for the explanation. I think I'm beginning to see how the new drag
> link works.
> Rich
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Grant Galbraith <trks@javanet.com>
> To: Rich Gallagher <rgallagrrr@mcn.net>
> Cc: Doug Pewterbaugh <dpewter@email.msn.com>; <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, February 22, 2000 12:41 PM
> Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Pitman and steering arm ball help
>
> > The replacement arm I got is still configured the same way. Instead of
> having
> > two sockets for the ball studs it comes with the sealed one piece joints
> that
> > are part of the drag link. They joints bolt in where the ball studs are.
> The
> > problem I had was despite Carter's telling me the studs would fit the old
> > steering arm they were a different size. I had to use a later steering
> arm and
> > maybe even the later pitman arm, can't remember for sure. If I could only
> > remember where I put my Ginkgo.
> >
> > Grant
> > 50 Chevy 3100
> > 52 GMC 150
> >
> > Rich Gallagher wrote:
> >
> > > > I ordered a new style drag link also and found it wouldn't fit the
> old
> > > style steering arm. Had to replace that also.<
> > >
> > > Opps, I wondered about that! How would a drag link with two balls
> connect
> > > to the steering arm with only a hole where the removed ball stud had
> been?
> > > I think I'll call Chevy Duty.
> > > Rich Gallagher
> > > 50 1 ton & 56 3200
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: Grant Galbraith [mailto:trks@javanet.com]
> > > Sent: Tuesday, February 22, 2000 7:08 AM
> > > To: Rich Gallagher
> > > Cc: Doug Pewterbaugh; oletrucks@autox.team.net
> > > Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Pitman and steering arm ball help
> > >
> > > I ordered a new style drag link also and found it wouldn't fit the
> old
> > > style steering arm. Had to replace that also.
> > >
> > > I had a hard time grinding off penned area and pressing out. I've
> had
> > > better luck drilling most of the stud out first.
> > >
> > > Grant
> > > 50 Chevy 3100
> > > 52 GMC 150
> > >
> > > Rich Gallagher wrote:
> > >
> > > > Doug-
> > > > Thanks for the reply. I've already located the newer style drag link
> at
> > > > Chevy Duty (part 76-412) with the balls intergal to the drag link.
> Have
> > > the
> > > > knuckle and arm off already but believe you are correct about the
> pitman
> > > > arm. I've got it most of the way off with a gear puller but its a
> chore
> > > to
> > > > keep everything aligned so as not to damage the bolt and arm groves.
> I'll
> > > > give it a couple of more trys and then probably go in search of a
> pitman
> > > > puller. As for pressing out the ball studs, I can grind off the
> overlap
> > > on
> > > > the reverse and I'll see if my cheepo press works and if not, take
> them to
> > > > the machine shop.
> > > > Rich Gallagher
> > > >
> > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > From: Doug Pewterbaugh [mailto:dpewter@email.msn.com]
> > > > Sent: Monday, February 21, 2000 9:53 AM
> > > > To: Rich Gallagher; oletrucks@autox.team.net
> > > > Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Pitman and steering arm ball help
> > > >
> > > > I see that no one responded to you through the list & I have been
> through
> > > > this SO... here goes:
> > > >
> > > > To remove the pitman arm, remove the large nut holding the pitman arm
> on.
> > > > Next get a "pitman arm puller" tool (yes, this is a specific tool-most
> > > gear
> > > > pullers won't work). Try to get a free loaner at your FLAPS.
> > > >
> > > > After pulling the pitman arm, remove the steering knuckle from the
> wheel
> > > > (two nuts holding it to the back of the hub). Take the two parts to a
> > > > machine shop (unless you have the tools) & they will have to grind the
> > > back
> > > > side of the parts (opposite the balls) in order to remove the
> "mushroomed"
> > > > shaft that is created during manufacture. Then press the balls out
> from
> > > the
> > > > back side (mine took over 10 tons of pressure to remove).
> > > >
> > > > If you want to go back to "original" style (pressed in), have the new
> > > parts
> > > > with you & get the shop to press them in & "mushroom" the backs again.
> If
> > > > you want to use the bolt in type, take the pitman arm & steering
> knuckle
> > > > home & bolt the new balls in.
> > > >
> > > > I got bolt in balls from Jim Carter (he also has the press in type).
> > > >
> > > > Regards,
> > > > Doug Pewterbaugh
> > > > dpewter@msn.com
> > > > Denton, TX
> > > > 49 3104 216 5-window
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: Rich Gallagher <rgallagrrr@mcn.net>
> > > > To: <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> > > > Sent: Thursday, February 17, 2000 11:49 PM
> > > > Subject: [oletrucks] Pitman and steering arm ball help
> > > >
> > > > > Thanks everyone for the help on the drag ling for my 50 1 ton. I've
> > > > soaked
> > > > > it a couple of days and cleaned it up tonight and it does look worn.
> > > What
> > > > > appears to be worse tho is the condition of the balls on the
> steering
> > > arm
> > > > > and the pitman arm. Both have gouges and groves in them. Can
> someone
> > > > tell
> > > > > me where I can get new balls for both? How do I take the pitman arm
> > > > > off--looks like a gear puller would do it but I don't want to damage
> it.
> > > > > Any suggestions? If I find new balls for both, how are the
> installed?
> > > > TIA
> > > > > (again) for the advice.
> > > > > Rich Gallagher
> > > > > 50 1 ton & 56 3200
> > > > >
> > > > > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and
> 1959
> > > >
> > > > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and
> 1959
> > >
> > > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> >
> >
>
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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