Thanks for the Article Jon,
That article had me wondering if I had in fact read it or was dreaming.
I didn't like the idea of getting a lower ride height by cutting the coil
springs because that always leads to a harsher ride and a return visit from
the customer. I'm one for replacing the springs with a softer set that
makes the Sunday drives more of a pleasure.
When I install "Mustang II units" and the customer want's a slightly lower
stance without investing in dropped spindles, I raising the suspension
Crossmember up into the frame by notching the lower frame to lower the ride
height. I think a modification like that would get the ride height you want
without having to replace the springs. What do you think?
The tires seemed to extend past the fenders openings in the article. Did
you have that problem on your conversion too. I think an offset rim would
allow more tire to fender clearance and a lower ride height.
Because of the wider track width of the subframes, lately we've been
narrowing the Crossmember and centerlink to decrease the width and provide
more tire clearance. Did you happen to do that on your installation.
Was their a slight modification required to the bumper bracket to clear the
steering box?
I like the fact that only two Borgeson U-joints are required for the
installation. You can probably use the original steering shaft by drilling
out the plastic pins and adjusting the shaft to the desired length.
To date I think this is the least time consuming and most affordable method
of gaining independent front suspension, disc brakes, power steering and an
1 1/8" sway bar. I guess I'm going shopping for a truck suspension for my
next conversion.
Joe
Chevy1
Http://chevy1.freeservers.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Peters, Jon C <jpeters@sikorsky.com>
To: 'joe' <chevy1@jps.net>
Sent: Friday, February 11, 2000 12:45 PM
Subject: RE: [oletrucks] Re: bolting up a mid 70 suspension
> Joe,
> The only article I saw on this was in American Rodder(see attached) and it
> really wasn't a tech article...... However I've don this on 2 trucks a 51
> and a 53 Chevy. The spacers I used were 1/2" thick for the saddle and the
> steering sector. The 73' through 87' c10 2wd trucks (through 89' suburban)
> will work. the difference between the early and the late is the steering
> sector(box) went metric in 81' (threads on power steering hoses). You
might
> have to go with negative offset (AKA g10 van type) wheels. On one truck I
> did on the other I didn't go figure.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: joe [mailto:chevy1@jps.net]
> Sent: Thursday, February 10, 2000 11:15 PM
> To: Bob Keeland; oletrucks@autox.team.net
> Subject: [oletrucks] Re: bolting up a mid 70 suspension
>
>
> Hi Bob,
>
> I just wanted to let you know I'm still looking for the article about
> bolting up a truck front suspension to the 1946-#### frame.
>
> I think the 83 Silverado frame with suspension will work as long as it
fits
> the criteria I listed in the previous letter.
>
> As soon as I find the article "hopefully tomorrow" I'll let you know.
It's
> just hard to thumb through 15 plus years of magazines and not ready the
> articles and look at the pictures.
>
> Previous Article so the other members can follow what we're talking about.
>
> Joe
> Chevy1
> >
> > A buddy of mine keeps telling me to quit wasting my time and money on
> > installing sub frames and Mustang II front suspensions and bolt these
> units
> > in.
> >
> > He say's you:
> >
> > 1. Measure and record the frame width of vehicle you took the
suspension
> > from
> > 2. Mark the trucks straight axle centerline on the frame
> > 3. Level the truck and place it on jack stand
> > 4. Remove the straight axle and front clip
> > 5. Weld in spacer blocks in the area the donor suspension is to be
> > installed
> > 6. He recommends 3/16 plate to mount the suspension
> > 7. Mark the donor suspension axle centerline "just in front of the
upper
> > shock mount "
> > 8. Line up the two centerlines and drill your mounting bolts
> > 9. You will have to make the mounting bracket for the shock
> >
> > I haven't did this installation as of yet but I'm going to install one
> this
> > spring so he'll leave me alone for awhile.
> >
> > I would recommend the following before undertaking this:
> >
> > a) Do some measuring on track width so your tires aren't going to stick
> > outside the fenders. His sit within the fenders and have plenty of tire
> > clearance but I would still see if their is a difference in track width
> > between different years.
> >
> > b) See if your going to be able to use the original engine mounts or
have
> to
> > fabricate new ones. He and I install newer engines V-8's and use newer
> side
> > mounts.
> >
> > c) I would take a magnetic protractor and place it on the upper A-arm
> "close
> > to where the shims are and take a reading so when you bolt your unit on
> it's
> > in the same relationship "ANGLE" as the factory set their units to help
> with
> > alignment.
> >
> > He failed to tell me about the bracket needed to bolt on the steering
box?
> > That would require just a measurement from the donor vehicle.
> >
> > You will then also get the benefit of a tilt column if you desire.
> >
> > I have seen this modification at several shows also and have seen it in
a
> > few magazines like trucking and I think Street Rodder.
> >
> > I have a day off and it's raining so I'll thumb through some magazines
and
> > see if I can find the article.
> >
> >
>
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
>
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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