I was hoping for a chemical based solution since I have bags and bags of
nuts, bolts, washers, specialty items and do not look forward to sitting in
front of a wire wheel for the better part of a week. Still tho, if a single
neutralizer is not sufficient to stop the acidic action, then that is not
for me. I was hoping for a product (acid, then neutralizer) made
specifically for this purpose that worked flawlessly. I have a very old
wimpy bench grinder (1/4 horse or less) that will do the job safer, but was
hoping for a better way. The tumbler idea might work but I would worry about
the threads. Some of these old bolts (like the hood hinge ones) are not easy
to find and need to retain their holding properties.
Deve
----- Original Message -----
From: <Advdesign1@aol.com>
To: <haist@jps.net>; <dkrehbiel@kscable.com>; <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 22, 2000 5:03 AM
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Nutz and Boltz
> >
> > Small parts I clean and de-rust with muriatic acid.
> > Does anyone else do this?
> >
>
> I tried this 25 years ago on a rust pitted body. The new paint job flaked
> off in short order. I concluded I didn't neutralize the acid
sufficiently.
> After that I used phosphoric acid based metal prep to wash down the
muriatic,
> and conversion coating over that. Still didn't get good long term
results,
> so I gave up.
> Bob ADler
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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