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Grant Galbraith wrote:
> >From your description you have what is called the "fresh air " or "deluxe"
> heater. The end of the motor is sealed to the firewall by a doughnut plate
> with rubber seal attached. I bought a new seal and a replacement 12 volt motor
> from J.C. It was also shorter and smaller in dia as you describe. What I did
> was to take the case half off the original motor, remove the rivets holding
> the brushes in and bolt that motor onto the replacement motor with the long
> through bolts. Elongate holes as necessary. This supplied a dummy extension to
> the shorter, smaller motor that looks and fits the firewall seal exactly like
> the original.
>
> Grant
> 50 Chevy 3100
> 52 GMC 150
>
> jelerath@us.ibm.com wrote:
>
> > Hi All,
> > This weekend I replaced the motor in the heater of my '53 3100. I read in
> > a previous note from someone that nearly ANY heater motor will fit. It
> > won't!
> >
> > My motor has two long bolts that run the length of the motor and both hold
> > the casings together and (with a second set of nuts) hold the motor into
> > the truck's heater housing. There are no other flanges attached (spot
> > welded) to the motor.
> >
> > Most of the newer ones (1972 Novas, camaros, Cadillacs, Oldsmobile, Buick,
> > other assorted Chevys) all have a large flange as part of the motor
> > housing. They don't work.
> >
> > I found a 1962 Buick Skylark that has an adaptable motor. The mounting
> > bolts are only about 2 1/8 inches apart instead of 2 1/4 inches, but they
> > are the correct length. I drilled new holes in the flange in my truck's
> > heater and it fit wonderfully. I used the truck's original squirrel cage
> > because the Buick's was shaped wrong. The motor shaft for the Buick has a
> > threaded end and a nut to hold the cage on. I used BOTH the original set
> > screw in the side and the nut on top. The motor length is a bit shorter
> > but since it fits through a hole in the firewall, it isn't a problem. The
> > Buick motor is smaller diameter in general which means there is a bigger
> > gap between OD of the motor and the ID of the hole in the firewall. It
> > appears that there used to be something covering the end of the motor
> > screwed into the firewall from the engine compartment side. Is this true?
> >
> > Only other change is the connector on the wiring. My originally had two
> > wires (freyed and shorting) whereas the new motor has only one and the
> > connector style is different.
> >
> > The motor was about $9 at my local pick-n-pull. That plus the new
> > connector on my wire are the only costs. Hope this helps someone else.
> >
> > Jon '53 3100
> > jelerath@us.ibm.com
> >
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 13:34:56 -0500
From: Grant Galbraith <trks@javanet.com>
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To: jelerath@us.ibm.com
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Heater motor replacement
References: <87256869.00601749.00@d53mta01h.boulder.ibm.com>
>From your description you have what is called the "fresh air " or "deluxe"
heater. The end of the motor is sealed to the firewall by a doughnut plate
with rubber seal attached. I bought a new seal and a replacement 12 volt motor
from J.C. It was also shorter and smaller in dia as you describe. What I did
was to take the case half off the original motor, remove the rivets holding
the brushes in and bolt that motor onto the replacement motor with the long
through bolts. Elongate holes as necessary. This supplied a dummy extension to
the shorter, smaller motor that looks and fits the firewall seal exactly like
the original.
Grant
50 Chevy 3100
52 GMC 150
jelerath@us.ibm.com wrote:
> Hi All,
> This weekend I replaced the motor in the heater of my '53 3100. I read in
> a previous note from someone that nearly ANY heater motor will fit. It
> won't!
>
> My motor has two long bolts that run the length of the motor and both hold
> the casings together and (with a second set of nuts) hold the motor into
> the truck's heater housing. There are no other flanges attached (spot
> welded) to the motor.
>
> Most of the newer ones (1972 Novas, camaros, Cadillacs, Oldsmobile, Buick,
> other assorted Chevys) all have a large flange as part of the motor
> housing. They don't work.
>
> I found a 1962 Buick Skylark that has an adaptable motor. The mounting
> bolts are only about 2 1/8 inches apart instead of 2 1/4 inches, but they
> are the correct length. I drilled new holes in the flange in my truck's
> heater and it fit wonderfully. I used the truck's original squirrel cage
> because the Buick's was shaped wrong. The motor shaft for the Buick has a
> threaded end and a nut to hold the cage on. I used BOTH the original set
> screw in the side and the nut on top. The motor length is a bit shorter
> but since it fits through a hole in the firewall, it isn't a problem. The
> Buick motor is smaller diameter in general which means there is a bigger
> gap between OD of the motor and the ID of the hole in the firewall. It
> appears that there used to be something covering the end of the motor
> screwed into the firewall from the engine compartment side. Is this true?
>
> Only other change is the connector on the wiring. My originally had two
> wires (freyed and shorting) whereas the new motor has only one and the
> connector style is different.
>
> The motor was about $9 at my local pick-n-pull. That plus the new
> connector on my wire are the only costs. Hope this helps someone else.
>
> Jon '53 3100
> jelerath@us.ibm.com
>
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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