Stephen,
I use a lovely olive green Lady Kenmore bought from the thrift store many
years ago. It is, of course, a Sears sewing machine. The only problem I
encounter is that you must sometimes assist the mechanism that pulls the
fabric along, as three layers of vinyl is a bit of a challenge to the old
thing. I would be willing to bet that a newer machine would do the job
better. I also used upholstery grade nylon thread, same color as the vinyl.
To the rest that are interested, Ron Ramirez wrote (concerning the seat cover
instructions):
Dave, how about we post this in the Tech section of Chevytrucks.org? This
would be an excellent article for the site, and I would be happy to have the
illustration, also. Please let me know. Thanks.
--
Ron Ramirez - mrphilco@mail.wko.com - Providence, KY
Ron,
Does this mean that the illustration will also be in the tech section? I will
send one to you immediately, and if it can be posted there fine, if not I will
send it out to those who have requested.
Dave Thomas,
'54 3100
Stephen wrote:
> Hi Dave,
>
> I would like a copy of the illustration. And thanks for the excellent
> directions. What type of sewing machine is needed to sew the vinyl?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Stephen
> '49 GMC Panel
> '50 Chevy Suburban
> '58 Chevy Fleetside Pickup
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Dave Thomas <dthomas@series2000.com>
> To: Chevy Trucks <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, December 26, 1999 3:13 AM
> Subject: [oletrucks] Seat Cover - Do It Yourself
>
> > Hey Guys and Gals,
> >
> > Since I got so many requests for the How-To, here goes. First let me
> > say that I did not mean to insult anyone who has used hog rings for
> > their covers. But it just didn't make any sense not to do it like the
> > factory, since it is actually easier, and just as cheap. I also do not
> > have any pictures of the new seat, but you can se my truck at
> > http://www.fortunecity.com/meltingpot/anderson/65/index.html
> >
> > I have prepared an illustration of how to create seams and how to place
> > skirt panels. It is very difficult to describe just how to do this, so
> > the illustration is a must. It is about 38K in size. I will gladly
> > post it if the administrators of this list say it is OK. Otherwise, I
> > can send it to individuals as requested.
> >
> > The seat cover itself is a really simple piece of work. The springs are
> > 52-1/4 inches wide. With adding about 1 inch to this length to make
> > sure the seams are on the sides of the foam (as opposed to being sat on)
> > and another 1-1/2 inches for seam flaps, the springs are too wide to
> > work with the typical 54" wide vinyl, so plan on making length-wise
> > cuts. I can't say exactly how much to buy, as I bought remnants at a
> > discount, and never really figured it up.
> >
> > The "skirt", the part of the cover which goes from the top of the seat
> > or back to the frame, needs to be 10" wide. There are three sections of
> > skirt for the seat and three for the back. The front section is 46",
> > and the two side/back (they wrap around and meet in the middle of the
> > back of the seat, or the bottom of the seat back) should be cut about
> > 55" so you have plenty to work with. The 55" measurement should be
> > verified, since I just cut my pieces out of leftovers, and then trimmed
> > the ends as they came together in the back.
> >
> > The seat/back section should be cut by laying the springs on the vinyl
> > and tracing around them with a marker. Hold the marker such that it
> > adds close to 1/2" to the overall outline. The springs will not be
> > perfectly straight along the long measurements, so use a straight-edge
> > to straighten out these lines. This is the line that you will sew on.
> > Make another outline 3/4" from the original. This is the line you will
> > cut on. If you do everything right you will have a 3/4" flap (see
> > illustration) extending past the seam.
> >
> > First sew the sections of skirt together, end-to-end as shown in the
> > illustration. The three pieces combine into one long 10" wide piece
> > with decorative seams to be seen in the front of the seat, or the top of
> > the back The shorter piece is not as wide as the seat, so its seams are
> > inset from the corners a few inches on either side. The two remaining
> > ends are NOT to be sewn together at this time. To attach the skirt to
> > the seat/back I stapled it first (I am SURE this is not the way a pro
> > would do it, it was just an easy way for me) with a small paper
> > stapler. This way you can position the front panel with its seams
> > evenly spaced from the corners of the top/back, and it won't slip or
> > stretch. I put a staple about every three inches and about 1/4" from
> > the edge (remember you should be actually sewing about 3/4" from the
> > edge). Just lay the skirt on the top/back face to face, line up the
> > edges, and start stapling. I did not carry the staples around the
> > corners, just along the front to keep my alignment. The corners are the
> > hard part because they are round, and the skirt is a straight piece of
> > material. You have to get rough with it sometimes (this is where
> > practice makes perfect seams) but you can get it to work, just go a
> > little at a time. The skirt will buckle, and this is actually what you
> > want. You might want to make a removable mark on the vinyl at the
> > center of the backside (or bottom if referring to seat back). This is
> > so you know to stop sewing when you get to that point. This where I
> > cheated a little for the sake of ease. I sewed around the seat in
> > opposite directions starting from the front. When I got around to the
> > back, I just let the skirt overlap itself, and trimmed it to fit. Then
> > I just sewed the skirt to itself across the 10" dimension for added
> > strength. Normally a nice seam is made in the skirt here, but this
> > requires more precision than I was capable of, and this seam is not seen
> > when the seat is installed. The same goes for the back. When you are
> > done, and unfold everything the skirt should hang at a 90 degree angle
> > to the top/back. Be sure and remove the staples.
> >
> > At this point you could actually install the new cover, but it would not
> > look "factory". To give it this look you must fold the flap of material
> > that is leftover from the seam and top stitch it. The illustration
> > makes this far easier to understand. This decorative seam also
> > reinforces the whole thing.
> >
> > Installation of the cover:
> >
> > If you can get your foam cut for you by a pro, by all means do it this
> > way. Explain that straight lines are imperative, as the best sewing in
> > the world will be screwed up by crooked foam. If you are going to cut
> > it yourself, the best bet is to go to the thrift store and buy an
> > electric carving knife. They will cut foam like butter, especially if
> > you spray a little Pam on the blades first. For the seat, I used 2"
> > foam of the higher quality. The higher quality foam is usually some
> > other color than blonde. Mine is purple, and is firmer than the blonde
> > stuff. The seller told me it is what the pro's use, and will last
> > longer. I used 1" on the back. I did find a use for the hog rings. I
> > used them to hold a piece of carpet to the springs as a backing for the
> > foam (pile side up). I got my carpet from the dumpster behind the
> > carpet store. It was brand new carpet left-over from an installtion.
> > It is imperative that you put something in-between the foam and the
> > springs as they will cut into the foam. I just cut the carpet about 2"
> > bigger than the springs and force formed it around the edge wire. There
> > are some wire struts that you can hog ring it to. It also keeps the
> > edge wire of the springs from cutting your vinyl and makes the seat much
> > firmer. Do the same for the back. Place the foam on top of the carpet,
> > then slip the cover on. I lined up the front and side seams first. I
> > figured if the back seam was not exactly perfectly aligned, no one would
> > know. I set the seat on my bench with the front edge hanging out in
> > space. I was then able to mash the clips (see illustration) into the
> > channel while verifying the the front seam was even. The seams should
> > not be seen from the top of the seat (you should not sit on them). This
> > is why you make the top a little bigger than the actual dimensions of
> > the springs. Place clips as often as you can along the front edge of
> > the seat (in between each structural seat brace). I used some cheap
> > pliers whose jaws I ground smooth with my bench grinder to pinch them
> > into the channel.
> >
> > This is important! To keep from ripping the vinyl as you squeeze the
> > clips into the channel, do not attempt to stretch the vinyl with the
> > clip. Make sure that there is sufficient vinyl poked into the channel
> > before applying the clip. With the front clipped into place, I flipped
> > the seat upside-down and began gently stretching it along the back
> > side. This is where you are most likely to puncture the vinyl with a
> > clip. I got mine nice and tight, although I did have to re-do a couple
> > of clips as I went. The bottom skirt will just fit. The back will have
> > a little extra seeing as you only use 1" foam.
> >
> > I think this setup leaves you with a little taller seat, as I found it a
> > somewhat difficult to wedge the seat bottom under the back. Use a
> > little furniture polish on the surface of the vinyl, and this will go
> > much easier. The seat is also very flat, which I believe differs from a
> > factory seat, in that they have a little hump in them (I think - I have
> > never actually seen a factory seat in good condition).
> >
> > Let me know if you have any other questions.
> >
> > Dave Thomas,
> > '54 3100
> >
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> >
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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