There is also a gasket (cork, I think) inside the slip end sealing it to the
torque tube; if you heat it too much you will damage the gasket (cork, rope
or rubber) &, as has been emphasized before, it will leak. The pipe wrench
sounds like the best option so far. Once you get it broke free, do the rest
by hand.
Regards,
Doug Pewterbaugh
dpewter@msn.com
Denton, TX
49 3104 216 5-window
----- Original Message -----
From: G. Simmons <gls@4link.net>
To: David <dstiles@rmi.net>; john r dorsey <jrdorsey@strato.net>;
<bkn6@airmail.net>; <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 14, 1999 12:33 PM
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] gear grinding continued
> Hi David,
>
> I guess it's possible, but I doubt it. Since the drive shaft doesn't
> contact the torque tube or the slip end, I can't see how putting it into
> gear will do anything. I'll be the first to admit, however, that reason
is
> an indifferent guide to auto mechanics.
>
> Maybe if it spun for a while, the heat would do something. A better way
to
> use heat would be heating the slip end (but not the torque tube) with a
> torch so the end would expand away from the tube and break the rust bond.
> If the hear warps the end, though, it'll have leaks.
>
> Tapping it with a hammer might also loosen it, but if it goes out of
round,
> it'll leak.
>
> Regards,
>
> Grant S. gls@4link.net
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: David <dstiles@rmi.net>
> To: G. Simmons <gls@4link.net>; john r dorsey <jrdorsey@strato.net>;
> bkn6@airmail.net <bkn6@airmail.net>; oletrucks@autox.team.net
> <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> Date: Tuesday, December 14, 1999 9:55 AM
> Subject: Re: [oletrucks] gear grinding continued
>
>
> >Would it be possible to just put it in gear and break it loose that way
> >
> >> Hi Brad,
> >>
> >> >How in the world does the torque tube separate from the tranny? All
> >> > of the bolts are off, the tranny mount is off, and the collar is
> >> > "unscrewed", but its still tight as a drum.
> >>
> >> I had this exact problem a couple of years ago. The slip end gets
rusted
> >to
> >> the shaft or something. I solved it after much puzzling by getting a
> >> long-handled pipe wrench (about 4' long) to give me enough torque to
> twist
> >> the slip end free. Once it begins to move, you'll have no trouble.
> >>
> >> My one regret is that the wrench left teeth marks in the slip end.
Maybe
> >a
> >> smooth jawed wrench would have worked, but I think the teeth were
needed
> >to
> >> get a grip. Try with smooth jaws or a rag wrapping before you put
teeth
> >on
> >> the metal.
> >>
> >> > I have taken the ball and fork out, and think that I am ready to drop
> >> > the tranny (I wish that I had the guide pins that the shop manual
> >> > speaks of),
> >>
> >> Make guide pins from long bolts with the heads cut off and the shaft
ends
> >> beveled on your grinder. Be sure to chase the holes first and use lots
> of
> >> lube so you can loosen them with your fingers.
> >>
> >> Regards,
> >>
> >> Grant S. gls@4link.net
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> >>
> >
>
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
|