Sounds like a mess! 1 is supposed to be switched by the ignition switch.
according to classictruckshop.com, it is supposed to have an idiot light or
a resistor in series. 2 is supposed to be hot at all times. Do you mean
ammeter instead of voltmeter? I think so. An ammeter connects in series
with the charging circuit and measures current. A voltmeter connects in
parallel. On an ammeter, one terminal would go to the large wire on the
alternator, and the other terminal to the battery. It might be connected at
the solenoid, as an alternative. A one wire alternator makes this much
easier. The one wire would connect to one terminal on the ammeter, and the
other terminal would go to the battery, and that's it.
> Anyone out there know the basic wiring for a 57 283 upgraded to a HEI
>ignition and an alternator with an internal voltage regulator? I'm trying
>to straighten out the wiring from someone else's unsuccessful attempts.
The
>truck would run, but no charging system and a lot of non-functional
>electrical. The shop manual I have is little help, since not much is
>original.
> I want to use the original volt meter if possible. I know the positive
>wire from the alternator goes to the horn relay and the ground goes to a
>ground on the firewall. Here's where I start to get confused. The
>alternator wire from the "1" connector (wht) goes to the voltmeter (which
>side), right? The number "2" wire (blu) goes to the horn relay also,
right?
>If so, can the positive wire from the alternator and the number "2" wire be
>spliced together at the alternator since they both go to the same terminal
>on the horn relay? And last but not least, if the "1" wire goes to the
>voltmeter, where does the wire from the other voltmeter terminal go? It
>looks like it goes to one of the terminals on the ignition switch, but the
>diagram isn't too clear.
> I know this shouldn't be too complicated, but I'm losing this battle.
Any
>help would be greatly appreciated, as I don't want to fry whatever the
>previous owner hasn't already. Jon Elerath was kind enough to send me his
>diagrams, but mine's too different from his for me to figure it out. I've
>replaced the alternator, removed the old voltage regulator (which was still
>wired being used as terminal block from what I could tell), and removed the
>resistor block that was still wired between the distributor and ignition
>switch (although it was fried too). Thanks, guys.
>
>Jim Phipps
>57 3604
>Abilene, Tx
>
>oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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