I didn't say he was interested or happy about it, but he puts up with me
(has to). He probably learns a little when I force him to do stuff with me.
We are real proud of other things he does.
-----Original Message-----
From: Lonnie L. Dickey <mdickey@silverback.gorilla.net>
To: Claude Ramey <rameyfam@n-link.com>; jelerath@us.ibm.com
<jelerath@us.ibm.com>; Tom Burt <tburt@hirose.com>
Cc: oletrucks@autox.team.net <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, July 08, 1999 9:59 PM
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Brake Solution (was Problem)
>Can I borrow your son. Please? My son is not interested in my project
>except its how he got one of my other cars. My wife, apparently like some
>other wives, is not fond being the "peddle pusher" and certainly wouldn't
>be the diver. I could really use your son. I have two master cylinders for
>brakes and one for the clutch.
>
>Lonnie
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Claude Ramey <rameyfam@n-link.com>
>To: <jelerath@us.ibm.com>; Tom Burt <tburt@hirose.com>
>Cc: <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Thursday, July 08, 1999 7:41 PM
>Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Brake Solution (was Problem)
>
>
>> I have my son trained and he even adds the brake fluid as he's pumping
>(not
>> always bad to add it thru the floorboard). He even knows ,now, not to let
>up
>> to quick on the pedal (fluid splashes back at ya).
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: jelerath@us.ibm.com <jelerath@us.ibm.com>
>> To: Tom Burt <tburt@hirose.com>
>> Cc: oletrucks@autox.team.net <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
>> Date: Thursday, July 08, 1999 2:00 PM
>> Subject: RE: [oletrucks] Brake Solution (was Problem)
>>
>>
>> >
>> >
>> >My wife is also a "certified brake-bleeding-peddle-pumper". My son has
>> trained
>> >two of his girl friends and one other guy. Perhaps we should develop a
>> >"certificate of appreciation".....
>> >
>> >Jon Elerath
>> >jelerath@us.ibm.com
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >Tom Burt <tburt@hirose.com> on 07/08/99 10:32:40 AM
>> >
>> >Please respond to Tom Burt <tburt@hirose.com>
>> >
>> >To: "'Schorn, Tim'" <SchornT@ci.fort-worth.tx.us>, tcape
>> <tcape@weblnk.net>,
>> > "oletrucks@autox.team.net" <oletrucks@autox.team.net>, "'Rob J.'"
>> > <rjj0msj@ix.netcom.com>
>> >cc:
>> >Subject: RE: [oletrucks] Brake Problem
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >My wife is checked-out on brake bleeding. I've replaced M/Cs and W/Cs
>> >enough times where she automatically pumps the pedal three times and
>holds
>> >for my signal then she yells out: "Hurry up and close off, so I can
>release
>> >the *%$!# pedal. My @#$% foot is getting tired."
>> >Just thank her and give her a big hug and kiss afterwards!
>> >
>> >Tom B. '57 Stepside 3200
>> >
>> >
>> >-----Original Message-----
>> >From: Schorn, Tim [SMTP:SchornT@ci.fort-worth.tx.us]
>> >Sent: Thursday, July 08, 1999 9:55 AM
>> >To: tcape; oletrucks@autox.team.net; 'Rob J.'
>> >Subject: RE: [oletrucks] Brake Problem
>> >
>> >Rob, you are right about the marriage part!! Mityvac saved my
>marriage!!!!
>> >
>> > Tim
>> > '50 chev dlx
>> >
>> >> ----------
>> >> From: Rob J.[SMTP:rjj0msj@ix.netcom.com]
>> >> Reply To: Rob J.
>> >> Sent: Thursday, July 08, 1999 10:50 AM
>> >> To: tcape; oletrucks@autox.team.net
>> >> Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Brake Problem
>> >>
>> >> Gotta wonder how you've managed to avoid doing brakes all this time!
>> >> Lucky
>> >> you! The procedure is actually very simple, but needs two people.
>Don't
>> >> know why, but my wife HATES helping. Maybe it is me yelling at her
>when
>> >> she
>> >> lets up on the brake pedal too soon? However, the procedure really
>is
>> >> pretty simple.
>> >> FIrst you gotta figure out where the air is coming in. Regardless,
>there
>> >> has to be a leak somewhere. Most likely one of the wheel cylinders.
>> >> Replace the wheel cylinder or fix the leak first.
>> >>
>> >> To bleed: Start with a quart sized bottle of brake fluid. Open the
>> >> master
>> >> cylinder (access thru hole in floor). Make sure it is full (and once
>you
>> >> start, it is CRITICAL that it stays full). Then, starting with the
>right
>> >> rear wheel cylinder, you open the bleed screw (get a special brake
>> >bleeder
>> >> screw wrench (couple of dollars at Pep Boys)). I use a Lisle bleeding
>> >> contraption (basically a plastic jar with a hose the pushes onto the
>> >> bleeder
>> >> screw and collects discharged fluid, and also keeps air from being
>drawn
>> >> in
>> >> at the bleeder screw. Also under $10 and available at any of the
>better
>> >> stocked auto parts stores. Anyway, before starting, first makes sure
>you
>> >> can loosen ALL the bleeder screws. As soon as you loosen them,
>> >retighten,
>> >> but at least this way you KNOW they will brake (sic) (pun intended)
>free.
>> >> Otherwise, you will need to remove the wheel cylinder and use a vice
to
>> >> remove them (but then you'll also need replacement bleeder screw).
Ok,
>> >> all
>> >> the screws are loose and retightened. Now go to the right rear wheel
>> >> cylinder, hook the hose over the screw, loosen slightly the screw,
then
>> >> have
>> >> a helper slowly push the brake pedal to the floor and HOLD IT DOWN DO
>NOT
>> >> RELEASE. With the pedal down, retighten the screw. Now have the
>helper
>> >> raise the brake pedal, pump it to build up pressure, then hold
pressure
>> >on
>> >> it while you reloosen the screw. The pedal will slowly sink to the
>> >floor.
>> >> Again, have them hold in down until you retighten the screw. Then
they
>> >> can
>> >> raise the pedal. Continue this procedure until all air bubbles stop
>> >> coming
>> >> out the screw and down the hose. Also, if the brakes haven't been
>bleed
>> >> in
>> >> awhile, continue until the cloudy brown fluid is replaced by clear
(new
>> >> appearing) fluid. Then go to the left side wheel and repeat. Then go
>to
>> >> the right front and repeat, then the left front and repeat.
>> >>
>> >> At all times, make sure the master cylinder never runs low, otherwise
>you
>> >> will introduce air into the system, and then have to start the whole
>> >thing
>> >> over again (been there, done that - remember me saying about yelling
at
>> >> wife
>> >> :-(
>> >>
>> >> Brakes are really pretty easy to learn how to do. All you have to
keep
>> >in
>> >> mind, is that you are trying to avoid air at all costs. If the pedal
>> >gets
>> >> raised while the bleeder screw is open, you draw air into it (unless
>you
>> >> have the Lisle system in place, in which case, the hose is filled with
>> >> fluid
>> >> and then only fluid get sucked back in. Using the Lisle system will
>> >> simplify things somewhat by preventing the need to retighten the screw
>> >> with
>> >> each push of the pedal. It also allows you to collect the wasted
brake
>> >> fluid (to later dispose of as HAZWASTE).
>> >>
>> >> There are tools that will power bleed the brakes by "sucking" fluid
>down
>> >> the
>> >> lines from the master cylinder (you basically hook it up at each wheel
>> >and
>> >> suck fluid through the line and this makes it a one man job, but is
>more
>> >> costly a tool. I am thinking about getting one though as they aren't
>> >REAL
>> >> costly and will prevent a broken marriage perhaps.
>> >>
>> >> Let me know if any of this in unclear or you have any other questions.
>> >>
>> >> Rob
>> >> ----- Original Message -----
>> >> From: tcape <tcape@weblnk.net>
>> >> To: Rob J. <rjj0msj@ix.netcom.com>
>> >> Sent: Thursday, July 08, 1999 6:48 AM
>> >> Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Brake Problem
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> > Thanks, Rob. I've never bled the brakes before. Is that a big
>> >> deal...or
>> >> > something simple?? What do you do with the extra fluid that comes
>out?
>> >> > Will it evaporate if left on the driveway? I try to be
>> >"environmentally
>> >> > friendly" if at all possible. Thanks for the response.
>> >> > Tom
>> >> >
>> >> > -----Original Message-----
>> >> > From: Rob J. <rjj0msj@ix.netcom.com>
>> >> > To: oletrucks@autox.team.net <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
>> >> > Date: Tuesday, July 06, 1999 6:20 PM
>> >> > Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Brake Problem
>> >> >
>> >> >
>> >> > >Agreed about the air, especially if it shows up "suddenly". If
>> >> bleeding,
>> >> > >start at the wheel cylinder the furthest away from the master and
>work
>> >> your
>> >> > >way to the one that is closest. Especially important on the single
>> >> > >reservoirs systems.
>> >> > >
>> >> > >Rob
>> >> > >----- Original Message -----
>> >> > >From: Marlene Rzepkowski <mrzepkow@rochester.rr.com>
>> >> > >To: tcape <tcape@weblnk.net>; Oletrucks <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
>> >> > >Sent: Tuesday, July 06, 1999 1:51 PM
>> >> > >Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Brake Problem
>> >> > >
>> >> > >
>> >> > >> Mushy brakes is usually air in the lines. Air can get in from a
>low
>> >> > >> reservoir. Try bleeding the brakes all around.
>> >> > >> Dick
>> >> > >> 59 Apache - 1 ton.
>> >> > >>
>> >> > >> -----Original Message-----
>> >> > >> From: tcape <tcape@weblnk.net>
>> >> > >> To: Oletrucks <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
>> >> > >> Date: Tuesday, July 06, 1999 3:25 PM
>> >> > >> Subject: [oletrucks] Brake Problem
>> >> > >>
>> >> > >>
>> >> > >> >Need some help on a brake problem. While driving my '47 this
>week,
>> >> I
>> >> > >> >noticed the brakes have suddenly gotten very "spongy" and are
>VERY
>> >> slow
>> >> > >to
>> >> > >> >stop the truck. I have to mash them very hard to get the truck
>to
>> >> slow
>> >> > >> >down. They still work, just don't stop nearly as well as
before.
>> >> Any
>> >> > >idea
>> >> > >> >what the problem is??? TIA
>> >> > >> >
>> >> > >> >
>> >> > >> >
>> >> > >> >oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941
>and
>> >> 1959
>> >> > >> >
>> >> > >>
>> >> > >> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941
and
>> >> 1959
>> >> > >>
>> >> > >
>> >> > >oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and
>> >1959
>> >> > >
>> >> >
>> >> >
>> >> >
>> >>
>> >> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and
1959
>> >>
>> >oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>> >
>> >oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>> >
>>
>>
>> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>>
>
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
|