Buy a 25 (30 if you can get it) ohm potentiometer from Radio Shack and hook
it up in place of the sending unit. The gauge should read from empty to
almost full. This verifies the gauge. The sending unit should read from 0 to
30 ohms, if not, it's broke. I'm surprised that you would get two bad
sending units in a row, or even one for that matter, but that 's what it
sounds like. When testing the sender with the ohm meter, make sure it is set
to Rx1, and not Rx10000 or something. The needle won't move a perceptible
amount on the higher setting.
>One final cry for help before throwing in the towel. I'm on my 5th gas
>gauge, and just unpacked my second sending unit from Chevy Duty. So far
>nothing close to working gas gauge.
>
>Question on the sending unit:
>
>How can I tell if the sending unit is working? When I hook up the ohm
>meter, with one lead to the terminal and one to the sending unit for a
>ground, I get an indication of continuity, but there is no variation when I
>move the float up and down. This is the same thing that happened with the
>previous sending unit, that I thought was bad. Is there a way to hook it
up
>so that when I move the float up and down, the ohm meter will correspond?
>
>Question on the gauge:
>
>My ohm meter shows continuity from one post to the other. Does this mean
>the gauge is good? Before I buy yet another gauge, can I hook up my new
>sending unit to another gauge, and somehow see if it is going to work once
>it's installed in the truck?
>
>Thanks!
>
>Smokey
>'50 3600 5-window (The one with the gas can in the back)
>
>oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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