Unless you use a guide coat you are surely asking for disappointment once the
final paint is on. The idea of a guide coat is to spray on a contrasting color
to the primer already on and block wet sand finishing in at least 320 but 400
is better. This should go on a waterproof primer surfacer if your going to wet
sand, most of these are two part with a catalyst. I found a product made by 3-M
called dry guide coat that is like a dry charcoal you wipe on. It stays in any
low spot or scratches as you block sand and shows them up. Personally I don't
like the idea of cheap rattle can guide coats in case you don't get all of it
off it becomes part of your paint system. That's only my opinion, I know many
people use rattle cans for guide coat. Getting filler or porous primer wet if
it is on bare steel is asking for trouble.
Grant 50 3100
mytruck@hehe.com wrote:
> I am getting close to paint time. On the body work I noticed that when
> things are different colors from sanding and filler and paint, it is hard
> to tell how straight the sand job is. My solution has been to spray canned
> primer over the area to make the color uniform and blemishes easier to
> spot. Then I resand to fix blemishes. Once the bodywork is done I plan on
> using spray (compressor) primer
> over everything, then paint. Does anyone see a problem with this process?
> Will the primer over primer cause probs?
>
> Just curious, Tex
>
> 59 short step
>
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