Paul,
I replaced the rear main in my 235 without removing the crank. First I
removed the rear main bearing and the two center bearings and losened the
front one. You can raise the rear of the crank just enough to push the old
seal out. But be sure not to raise it so high that you pull the rings on the
pistons out of the cylinder walls. Prop the crand up with something then
using something flexible but stiff enough you can push the old seal out. I
used a electricians fish tape. Be carefull not to scar the area around the
seal. Then I just rolled the new seal in. This worked considering I took out
a rope seal and replaced it with a rubber one. I would imagine you could
just reverse the process for the front seal. Also be very careful to put
your bearings back on EXACTLY the same way they came off and of course pay
attention to torque specs.
Good Luck
Jeff Davis
'51 custom
>From: Hudson29@aol.com
>Reply-To: Hudson29@aol.com
>To: oletrucks@autox.team.net
>Subject: [oletrucks] 235 Rear Main Seal
>Date: Mon, 28 Jun 1999 17:06:28 EDT
>
> I was reading through the '58 shop manual to see about installing a
>new front and rear main seal in a '59 235. The motor is out on the engine
>stand right now and is easy to get at so this seemed a good time to do it.
>The manual says that only the lower half of the rear main seal can be
>replaced without removing the crank.
> Is this really so? The local auto parts house supplied a nice moulded
>set that I had rather thought I could sneak around the crank somehow. How
>about the front seal? Can it be replaced without pulling the timing cover?
>
>Paul O'Neil, Hudson29@aol.com
>1951 Chevrolet 3600 Pickup Project, See it at:
>The Poor Man's Advanced Design Tech Tips Page
>http://home.earthlink.net/~conntest47/
>Fullerton, California USA
>AEROMARK - Need Rubber Stamps or Signs? See:
>http://hometown.aol.com/hudson29/myhomepage/index.html
>oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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