Just an idea, if the torque tube is out anyhow I removed my rear wheel
bearings with a 5' pipe from the other end. You could weld something on the
end to give you a little better edge grip. Also there should be a large
washer behind the bearing race that is what you need to push or pull
against. I don't know what the diamond cutting tool costs that you are
considering but a carbide rotary file should work and might be cheaper. I
don't think a nick or two in the axle housing will be disaster as long as
there is enough good metal left to ensure a press fit of the new bearing.
Grant 50 3100
Edward Miller wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> I'm running into a technical trouble replacing the rear bearing on my
> pickup. When the axle broke, it smashed the bearing beyond recognition;
> just tonight I pulled out the seal and most of the bearing wreckage.
> But I can't get the race out; I have a slide hammer puller, but it can't
> get a good grip on the race. I briefly tried to cut it with a chisel.
> Oh well, I guess I needed a new chisel anyway. :-)
>
> I'm considering buying a tiny diamond type cutting blade for my die
> grinder, and very carefully and fearfully trying to cut it apart without
> damaging the (naturally) much softer metal around it. I'd love it if
> somebody has a better idea....
>
> Thanks everybody,
> Ed Miller
> '58 Apache Fleetside (taking an unwilling break from it's work)
>
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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