dave riffel wrote:
>
> Wally,
>
> The small-block will fit fine. If you want a little more clearance in the
>engine compartment use the short water pump. With a reproduction radiator and
>short water pump I have nearly an inch behind the HEI distributor and more
>than an inch in front of the fan. The short pump will necessitate mounting
>the alternator above the engine, however. It looks cool there, though.
>
> You should check out Sanderson Headers for your exhaust. They have a _ton_
>of different applications available and are a very reputable company. We got
>some for my buddies '60 from them when we couldn't find any anywhere else.
>They have a very nice catalog too.
>
>
>
> For your brakes you can get a dual chamber power or non-power unit or bracket
>kit from brake places like ECI or Master Power. You can also get a firewall
>mount kit from Industrial Chassis for your truck. I'm using the firewall
>mount kit and can give you more info on it if you like. It's a no-brainer to
>install. My buddy just got a Master Power kit for his '60 Chevy pu; it's an
>extremely nice kit with all new cad-plated booster and new old style Corvette
>master.
>
> Hope this helps!
>
> Dave Riffel
>
> >All this is good news Jon. I had planned on using the shorty rod
>
> >headers instead of the rams horn manifolds, but may have to consider the
>
> >extensions in any case. And I also may do my own motor mounts. But
>
> >then working in a welding shop has its plus side! I'm assuming you
>
> >found the stock radiator was sufficient for the small block cooling.
>
> >
>
> >Thanks for the tips.
>
> >
>
> >Wally / Templeton, MA
>
> >53 3100
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >>
>
> >> I have a '53 with a 327 and an HEI ignition. It sits in fine without
>
> >> firewall bashing. However, with the original steering box I have to
>
> >> use
>
> >> RAMS horn manifolds with extensions welded straight down. The RAMS
>
> >> horn
>
> >> exhaust arcs up, over the steering box with a good 1/4" clearance. On
>
> >> the
>
> >> other side, my stock mechanical fuel pump has a good 1/4" clearance
>
> >> between
>
> >> it and the frame. When replacing it recently, I found I had to bend
>
> >> the
>
> >> output line on the fuel pump itself to get the necessary clearance. I
>
> >> have
>
> >> a stock radiator and the engine mounting looks like it was done with a
>
> >> kit
>
> >> from HURST. (The engine and transmission mounts do not look home made
>
> >> and
>
> >> the y have HURST stamped into the metal....good clue, eh?)
>
> >>
>
> >> Jon Elerath
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
I set my 350/350 combo into my 1954 frame and I can't get it back far
enough or low enough! I have a set of Chassis Engineering biscuit motor
mounts and set those in the rails as my guide of where to be with the
whole works. The pan on the transmission set on top of the old trans
crossmember and the hump on top of the trans hit the lip where the
firewall and toeboards/floorboards meet. Do I need to take out the
original trans crossmember, grind off the lip on the firewall... thpse
are the alternatives I see right now. Does anybody have any clues!
Paul Blosser
School of Metaphysics
1954 3100
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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