Listers,
I know where there is an unfinished coupe in San Jose, CA that was
partially built in the 1980s. It was built by Ray Wakefield out of a very
clean 1967 Sedan. Ray shortened the top by about 14 inches and lengthened
the bootlid, using two stock lids, while removing the license plate inset.
The whole back of the top was cut into a bunch of pieces and fitted
together to make the correct compound curves. He redid the back portion of
the top because the back window was slightly crooked after it was all
welded together, SO, he installed a small back window piece out of a rusty
Series II that made it look even older. The rest of the car was to remain
stock, right down to the wheels so it would look like a factory coupe.
The job was taking forever and the engine that had been prepared for the
coupe needed to be used in Ray's customized MM tourer when it wore out and
Ray was also busy putting a stock 1949 Studebaker pickup body on an IROC
Camero powered, shortened Chevy pickup chassis so he sold the car to a
neighbor who has done nothing to it or has been willing to sell it since.
the top is perfectly welded together but needs to be finished and painted.
Morris Lister, Paul Kelly of Austrailia has chopped a bunch of Minor tops
over the years and does a fantastic job - My favourite was a white Series
II 4-door with am MM front clip and spun aluminium Moon disc wheel covers.
It always has been the l;ate 1950s in Paul's heart!
Some of Paul's amazing work can still be viewed in his paperback book, The
Morris Minor Enthusiast - I still have a few left @ $10 postpaid anywhere
in the US - email me for details if you are interested.
Cheers,
Rick Feibusch
Venice Beach, CA
-------------------------------------------------
From: THEREDBARON1218@aol.com [mailto:THEREDBARON1218@aol.com]
Sent: 15 December 2003 11:10
To: morrisminors@smartgroups.com
Subject: Re: [MorrisMinors] Minor "coupes"
Well Doc, I still think most of your questions can be answered through
various hot rod magazine articles. I am not familiar with exactly what you
want to do, (obviously) but my experience says that most of your questions
are answered by "Do it the way you want to". Customizing is just that. Each
one is different. It depends what you are looking for. Do you WANT a 'long
tail' look? Leave the windshield alone, shorten the roof in the middle, at
the highest point, which will make the joint easiest, but will still
probably require some metalwork to look right. With a split screen, having a
peak in the front roof, I would think it best to leave that area alone. But
if you WANT a raked back windshield, then take some side view photos, make
photocopies, and try cutting them up and moving things around until you have
the look you want, then transfer the changes up to full size and start
there.
Sorry I can't give you a blueprint on it. Most such modifications are done
without any "plans", just the eyeball and cut and try as I have suggested.
You either need lots of experience at metalwork, or a lot of guts and
patience.
If you cut carefully, the removed pieces can be used to fill resulting
gaps. A section from the middle of the roof for instance, is close enough to
the rear deck shape to be used as filler there, with added sections as
needed. Again, a ratty donor car helps.
I imagine similar jobs have been done using every method you mention. I
have seen chops and aother major mods detailed with very different
approaches giving very similar results, vis-a-vis the drip rail etc.
As a personal comment, I think the results would be much more coupe-like
and more aesthetically pleasing if you leaned the B-post forward a bit as
you did it. Just off the top of my head, I would determine the highest point
of the roof crown, make a mark there, and then 1 1/2" ahead and behind it,
and cut there. I would probably "step" the cut at the drip rail for strength
and ease of realignment. I would then cut the B post free, and cut across
the rear deck behind the roof a little, slide the back section of roof
forward, reattach it, fill the gap behind the roof, and then reattach the B
post at an angle, basically reconnecting it at its original points, which
are now offset. That's how I would do it. But I haven't done it. But then, I
never did lots of things until I did them. And I still wouldn't have done
them if I waited for plans.......
Good luck
Red
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