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John,
Yes! This is the one I remember, shame on me for not looking in the
team.net archives. I do watch Norm Abrams and am reasonable talented in
woodworking so I will give it a try. Only that his starting width of 44"
does not relate to the overall inside width of the cab, mine is only 41-7/8"
I.D. and I am unclear as to how much of a gap I should start with, think
about 1-1/2" on each side.
Then when he get to the 'reuse your springs from the old backrest" he has
lost me as I have no backrest. I will probably go contoured foam at this
point.
All the best,
Bill
From: John T. Blair [mailto:jblair1948@cox.net]
Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2018 10:40 PM
To: wbeech <wbeech@flash.net>
Cc: morgans@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Morgans] Seat back pattern
At 02:14 PM 10/16/2018, wbeech wrote:
>OK, I'll contribute to the list with my current challenge, a 1954 Plus
Four. Re-
>building a basket case without benefit of being the one that disassembled
it. Car
>has no interior at all, making the seat bases is no problem but I am trying
to re-
>construct the seat back, have been working on making a pattern via the
cut-n-fit-
>n-cutsomemore method but not real sure just how the back rides on the side
sills
>and sits against the chassis cross member for bracing. Somewhere on the
web,
>not GoMog, I found a good tutorial with pictures of the way the back board
was
>configured to accept the foam to give the proper contours, but now I cannot
find
>it. .....
Bill,
While this probably isn't the item you were looking for, here is some info I
received
some time back. I want to get it up on SOL's Morgan Web page, but haven't
had
the chance.
----------------------------
Subject: RE: Roadster seat backrest (rebuild).
Date: Tue, 29 Jun 1999 14:01:31 -0400
Dear All,
I thought I'd post this letter so it may end up in the archives. Here is
some valuable information regarding the bench seat back rest of an early
'high-cowl' roadster. This information may also be useful to those with the
low body style.
I have had the opportunity to remove the leather coverings from my roadster
backrest as I had intended on replacing the wooden part as mine had rotted
(not to mention the leather). The idea was to have a new wood backrest made
and ready to go when I took it to the upholsterer.
WELL, This was not to be. THE BACKREST IS A COMPLICATED AFFAIR.
It is not something that can be made out of a sheet of half inch plywood,
and I'll tell you why.
Firstly, the original is made up from four different shaped/sized pieces of
wood, it has 19 springs (9 large ones and 10 small) that are attached in
different areas of the back. Moreover some are bent in such a way to give
that great "old sofa" look to the backrest when it is in the car.
I would STRONGLY suggest that if your back rest is shot, you either replace
it with bucket seats or look for a good used back rest at a swap meet.
However, If you watch Norm Abrams regularly and you are either desperate or
brave enough to attempt to make a replica - here are the measurements and
materials you will need.
Begin with a piece of quarter inch Luan board. It should measure 44'" Wide
by 21 & 3/4" deep.
Measuring from left to right, (along the long side) move the tape in 1 &
1/2" from the left side and make a mark. Then, from that mark, measure 41"
(this accomodates the notch either side at the top of the back rest, for
the hood frame.) This notch extends down from the top, 4 & 1/4" each side in
a slight curve.
The overall depth of the backrest is 21 & 3/4". Having marked for the notch
at the top, measure from the very top of the backrest down the right side 17
&1/2" and make a mark. (You will now begin to mark the bottom cut out, where
it bridges the leaf springs and sits on the sills). Measure in 4", down 1 &
1/2", then in 3", and down 2" to the bottom of the backrest. The total width
of this notch should be 7 & 1/2". Now, measure in from the right side edge
(not from the notch) 19" and put a mark.
Mirror the above measurements for the two notches on the left side of the
back.
At the bottom, in the middle you should end up with two marks about 6"
apart, this is where the cut out will be for the prop shaft tunnel. It
should be about 6 & 1/2" high, but it tapers. The best thing to do is set
your prop shaft tunnel on the back rest and use it as a template, you'll get
a much more accurate cut, but remember not to make it taller than 7".
At this stage you should not have made any cuts - everything should just be
marked though on the Luan board.
The next step is to take some 1/2" x 3" stock. (you could use 1/2" ply cut
3" wide). You will need two pieces 38 1/2" long for the top rail and the
upper base rail, two pieces 22" long for the side rails, one piece 12" long
for the center rail, one piece cut 7" wide x 38 & 1/2" long for the lower
base rail.
Now, turn your Luan back rest over on the floor so that the markings you
made earlier are facing down. Next lay out your pre cut lengths of 1/2" ply
as follows:
First place your two side rails on the outside edges either side, then place
the 7" wide base rail horizontally between them at the very bottom, directly
above that place the upper base rail and then place the top rail at the top
edge. Finally figure and mark the center point of the top and upper base
rail out, mark it and place the 12" center rail vertically between these two
points. You now have your basic frame laid out. You need to attach these
frame pieces to the Luan. I would suggest (now you know how it should look)
removing them and re-laying them out on the floor in front of you, then
place the Luan board on top (with your markings facing up) and nail through
the Luan into the ply wood frame rails, a little glue wouldn't hurt.
YOU ARE ALMOST FINISHED!
Once the frame pieces have been nailed to the Luan and the glue has dried,
take a plane and knock a 45 degree bevel top frame rail, but not so deep
that you cut into the Luan. Then, with a jig saw, cut out areas we marked
earlier.
Once again lay the back rest on the floor, frame side up, as we have two
more pieces of wood to add. These strengtheners are 23 & 1/2" long, 1 & 1/2"
wide by 1" deep. They run top to bottom, on their edge, at a slight diagonal
beginning, (measuring along the top of the backrest) 4" in from the hood
bow notch on either side - to just inside the notch we cut out for the leaf
spring shackle. You will see once you lay these on your backrest that you
will have to notch out these strengtheners so they attach to the Luan in
some places and frame in others. These pieces have a 45 degree bevel on ALL
FOUR long edges that will be inside the seat back. In addition the ends are
cut at 45 degrees so that they taper to create a wedge (2 - 2 1/2" long)
towards the top and bottom of the seat. These pieces are then attached to
the back rest with screws from behind.
There are just two more things you have to do. In the square area of Luan
that you now see either side of the center rail, drill a 1" air hole in the
middle. Finally, sand all the outside edges so there is nothing that will
rip you new leather when it's applied.
THAT'S IT!!!! You now have a Morgan back rest!
You should be able to re-use the springs from your old back rest. As I
mentioned earlier, there are 19 ! The two side rails get three large ones
each as does the center rail, the top row of the larger ones are bent down.
The square Luan section on each side get five small springs each, in a
square shape with one in the middle. All protruding frame edges on the
inside of the seat are covered with horse hair. A good auto upholsterer
should be able to take it from here.
Good luck!!
Jeff Webster
------------
Subject: RE: Roadster seat backrest (rebuild).
Jeff,
If you don't mind, I'd like to put your article up on the SOL's Morgan
Web page. Also do you have any pictures or sketches to go with your
explaniation?
----------------------------
John
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John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948@cox.net
Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229
48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III
65 Rambler Classic
Morgan: www.team.net/morgan <http://www.team.net/morgan>
Bricklin: www.bricklin.org <http://www.bricklin.org/>
If you can read this - Thank a teacher!
If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!
>From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy:
e pluribus Unum, "from many, one."
In God We Trust
Liberty - the power of choosing, thinking, and acting for
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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=3DEN-US link=3Dblue =
vlink=3Dpurple><div class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
>John,<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
>Yes! This is the one I remember, shame on me for not looking in =
the team.net archives. I do watch Norm Abrams and am reasonable =
talented in woodworking so I will give it a try. Only that his =
starting width of 44” does not relate to the overall inside width =
of the cab, mine is only 41-7/8” I.D. and I am unclear as to how =
much of a gap I should start with, think about 1-1/2” on each =
side.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
>Then when he get to the ‘reuse your springs from the old =
backrest” he has lost me as I have no backrest. I will =
probably go contoured foam at this point.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
>All the best,<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
>Bill<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
><o:p> </o:p></span></p><div><div =
style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in =
0in 0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'>From:</span><=
/b><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'> =
John T. Blair [mailto:jblair1948@cox.net] <br><b>Sent:</b> Tuesday, =
October 16, 2018 10:40 PM<br><b>To:</b> wbeech =
<wbeech@flash.net><br><b>Cc:</b> =
morgans@autox.team.net<br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Morgans] Seat back =
pattern<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'>At 02:14 PM 10/16/2018, wbeech =
wrote:<br><br>>OK, I’ll contribute to the list with my current =
challenge, a 1954 Plus Four. Re-<br>>building a basket case =
without benefit of being the one that disassembled it. Car =
<br>>has no interior at all, making the seat bases is no problem but =
I am trying to re-<br>>construct the seat back, have been working on =
making a pattern via the cut-n-fit-<br>>n-cutsomemore method but not =
real sure just how the back rides on the side sills <br>>and sits =
against the chassis cross member for bracing. Somewhere on the =
web, <br>>not GoMog, I found a good tutorial with pictures of the way =
the back board was <br>>configured to accept the foam to give the =
proper contours, but now I cannot find <br>>it. =
.....<br><br>Bill,<br><br>While this probably isn't the item you were =
looking for, here is some info I received<br>some time back. I =
want to get it up on SOL's Morgan Web page, but haven't had<br>the =
chance.<br><br>----------------------------<br><br>From: "Jeff =
Webster" <<a =
href=3D"mailto:carfindr@tiac.net";>carfindr@tiac.net</a>><br>To: =
<<a =
href=3D"mailto:Morgans@autox.team.net";>Morgans@autox.team.net</a>><br>=
Subject: RE: Roadster seat backrest (rebuild).<br>Date: Tue, 29 Jun 1999 =
14:01:31 -0400<br><br>Dear All,<br>I thought I'd post this letter so it =
may end up in the archives. Here is<br>some valuable information =
regarding the bench seat back rest of an early<br>'high-cowl' roadster. =
This information may also be useful to those with the<br>low body =
style.<br>I have had the opportunity to remove the leather coverings =
from my roadster<br>backrest as I had intended on replacing the wooden =
part as mine had rotted<br>(not to mention the leather). The idea was to =
have a new wood backrest made<br>and ready to go when I took it to the =
upholsterer.<br>WELL, This was not to be. THE BACKREST IS A COMPLICATED =
AFFAIR.<br>It is not something that can be made out of a sheet of half =
inch plywood,<br>and I'll tell you why.<br>Firstly, the original is made =
up from four different shaped/sized pieces of<br>wood, it has 19 springs =
(9 large ones and 10 small) that are attached in<br>different areas of =
the back. Moreover some are bent in such a way to give<br>that great =
"old sofa" look to the backrest when it is in the car.<br>I =
would STRONGLY suggest that if your back rest is shot, you either =
replace<br>it with bucket seats or look for a good used back rest at a =
swap meet.<br><br>However, If you watch Norm Abrams regularly and you =
are either desperate or<br>brave enough to attempt to make a replica - =
here are the measurements and<br>materials you will need.<br>Begin with =
a piece of quarter inch Luan board. It should measure 44'" =
Wide<br>by 21 & 3/4" deep.<br>Measuring from left to right, =
(along the long side) move the tape in 1 &<br>1/2" from the =
left side and make a mark. Then, from that mark, measure =
41"<br>(this accomodates the notch either side at the top of the =
back rest, for<br>the hood frame.) This notch extends down from =
the top, 4 & 1/4" each side in<br>a slight curve.<br>The =
overall depth of the backrest is 21 & 3/4". Having marked for =
the notch<br>at the top, measure from the very top of the backrest down =
the right side 17<br>&1/2" and make a mark. (You will now begin =
to mark the bottom cut out, where<br>it bridges the leaf springs and =
sits on the sills). Measure in 4", down 1 &<br>1/2", then =
in 3", and down 2" to the bottom of the backrest. The total =
width<br>of this notch should be 7 & 1/2". Now, measure =
in from the right side edge<br>(not from the notch) 19" and put a =
mark.<br>Mirror the above measurements for the two notches on the left =
side of the<br>back.<br>At the bottom, in the middle you should end up =
with two marks about 6"<br>apart, this is where the cut out will be =
for the prop shaft tunnel. It<br>should be about 6 & 1/2" high, =
but it tapers. The best thing to do is set<br>your prop shaft tunnel on =
the back rest and use it as a template, you'll get<br>a much more =
accurate cut, but remember not to make it taller than 7".<br>At =
this stage you should not have made any cuts - everything should just =
be<br>marked though on the Luan board.<br>The next step is to take some =
1/2" x 3" stock. (you could use 1/2" ply cut<br>3" =
wide). You will need two pieces 38 1/2" long for the top rail and =
the<br>upper base rail, two pieces 22" long for the side rails, one =
piece 12" long<br>for the center rail, one piece cut 7" wide x =
38 & 1/2" long for the lower<br>base rail.<br>Now, turn your =
Luan back rest over on the floor so that the markings you<br>made =
earlier are facing down. Next lay out your pre cut lengths of 1/2" =
ply<br>as follows:<br>First place your two side rails on the outside =
edges either side, then place<br>the 7" wide base rail horizontally =
between them at the very bottom, directly<br>above that place the upper =
base rail and then place the top rail at the top<br>edge. Finally figure =
and mark the center point of the top and upper base<br>rail out, mark it =
and place the 12" center rail vertically between these =
two<br>points. You now have your basic frame laid out. You need to =
attach these<br>frame pieces to the Luan. I would suggest (now you know =
how it should look)<br>removing them and re-laying them out on the floor =
in front of you, then<br>place the Luan board on top (with your markings =
facing up) and nail through<br>the Luan into the ply wood frame rails, a =
little glue wouldn't hurt.<br>YOU ARE ALMOST FINISHED!<br>Once the frame =
pieces have been nailed to the Luan and the glue has dried,<br>take a =
plane and knock a 45 degree bevel top frame rail, but not so =
deep<br>that you cut into the Luan. Then, with a jig saw, cut out areas =
we marked<br>earlier.<br>Once again lay the back rest on the floor, =
frame side up, as we have two<br>more pieces of wood to add. These =
strengtheners are 23 & 1/2" long, 1 & 1/2"<br>wide by =
1" deep. They run top to bottom, on their edge, at a slight =
diagonal<br>beginning, (measuring along the top of the backrest) =
4" in from the hood<br>bow notch on either side - to just inside =
the notch we cut out for the leaf<br>spring shackle. You will see once =
you lay these on your backrest that you<br>will have to notch out these =
strengtheners so they attach to the Luan in<br>some places and frame in =
others. These pieces have a 45 degree bevel on ALL<br>FOUR long edges =
that will be inside the seat back. In addition the ends are<br>cut at 45 =
degrees so that they taper to create a wedge (2 - 2 1/2" =
long)<br>towards the top and bottom of the seat. These pieces are then =
attached to<br>the back rest with screws from behind.<br>There are just =
two more things you have to do. In the square area of Luan<br>that you =
now see either side of the center rail, drill a 1" air hole in =
the<br>middle. Finally, sand all the outside edges so there is nothing =
that will<br>rip you new leather when it's applied.<br>THAT'S IT!!!! You =
now have a Morgan back rest!<br><br>You should be able to re-use the =
springs from your old back rest. As I<br>mentioned earlier, there are 19 =
! The two side rails get three large ones<br>each as does the center =
rail, the top row of the larger ones are bent down.<br>The square Luan =
section on each side get five small springs each, in a<br>square shape =
with one in the middle. All protruding frame edges on the<br>inside of =
the seat are covered with horse hair. A good auto upholsterer<br>should =
be able to take it from here.<br><br>Good luck!!<br><br>Jeff =
Webster<br><br>------------<br><br>From: "Jeff Webster" <<a =
href=3D"mailto:carfindr@tiac.net";>carfindr@tiac.net</a>><br>To: &=
nbsp; "John T. Blair" <<a =
href=3D"mailto:jblair@exis.net";>jblair@exis.net</a>> <br>Subject: RE: =
Roadster seat backrest (rebuild).<br><br>Jeff,<br><br> If =
you don't mind, I'd like to put your article up on the SOL's Morgan =
<br>Web page. Also do you have any pictures or sketches to go with =
your =
<br>explaniation?<br><br>----------------------------<br><br>John<o:p></o=
:p></p><div id=3DDAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><table class=3DMsoNormalTable =
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style=3D'width:41.25pt;border:none;padding:9.75pt .75pt .75pt .75pt'><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><a =
href=3D"https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=3Demail&utm_source=
=3Dlink&utm_campaign=3Dsig-email&utm_content=3Demailclient&ut=
m_term=3Dicon" target=3D"_blank"><span =
style=3D'text-decoration:none'><img border=3D0 width=3D46 height=3D29 =
id=3D"_x0000_i1025" =
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.75pt'><p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'line-height:13.5pt'><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:#41424E'>V=
irus-free. <a =
href=3D"https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=3Demail&utm_source=
=3Dlink&utm_campaign=3Dsig-email&utm_content=3Demailclient&ut=
m_term=3Dlink" target=3D"_blank"><span =
style=3D'color:#4453EA'>www.avast.com</span></a> =
<o:p></o:p></span></p></td></tr></table></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>John T. =
Blair WA4OHZ email: <a =
href=3D"mailto:jblair1948@cox.net";>jblair1948@cox.net</a><o:p></o:p></p><=
/div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>Va. Beach, =
Va  =
; Phone: (757) =
495-8229<o:p></o:p></p></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal> =
48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 =
Series V (B1106)<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal> 75 Bricklin SV1 =
(#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett =
III<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal> &=
nbsp; &n=
bsp; 65 Rambler Classic<o:p></o:p></p></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Morgan: <a =
href=3D"http://www.team.net/morgan";>www.team.net/morgan</a><o:p></o:p></p=
></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>Bricklin: <a =
href=3D"http://www.bricklin.org/";>www.bricklin.org</a> =
<o:p></o:p></p></div><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>If you can read =
this &nb=
sp; - Thank a teacher!<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>If =
you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!<o:p></o:p></p></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>From =
Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy:<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal> e pluribus Unum, "from =
many, one."<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal> In God We =
Trust<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal> Liberty - the =
power of choosing, thinking, and =
acting for <o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal> &=
nbsp; oneself; freedom =
from control or restriction =
<o:p></o:p></p></div><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'><o:p> </o:p></p></div></body></html>
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_______________________________________________
Morgans@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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