I was wondering if I could "clean it up" and run it for a
>while. My dad said that they used to run kerosene thru old engines (briefly)
>to de-gunk them.
>
>Anyone have ideas?
>
>Regards, Bill Beer
****************************************************
NOT A GOOD IDEA! I used one of those commercial
run-for-3-minutes-then-drain crankcase cleaners in a low milage Morris
Minor pickup that had been sitting forever and it cleaned it so well that
it smoked like Casey Jones' locomotive for THREE MONTHS of fairly regular
use before the rings reseated and and the smoke went away. The internal
scowering probably did other bad things as well but eventually everything
was OK and the car still runs well today with the same engine 15 years
later (though no more in regular use).
My suggestion would be to drain what is there and put in a new filter and
fill it with modern Castrol 20/50 AND a mild crankcase detergent additive
(one that says that it car be mixed and used with oil and not be flushed
out in 5 minutes of less. I personally use either a pint of Marvel Mystery
Oil or a half a can of automatic transmission fluid. Run the car for a few
weeks or so MAKING SURE THAT IT GETS UO TO OPPERATING TEMP EVERY TIME -
this will vaporize and "steam off" any moisture and start to break up the
old deposits. after a few weeks of this the new oil should get really black
- if it doesn't the deposits might not have been as bad as you thought.
ALWAYS KEEP TABS ON YOUR OIL PRESSURE - IF IT GOES WAY UO OR WAY DOWN,
THERE COULD BE CRUD BLOCKING SOMETHING BUT WITH THIS CONSERVATIVE APPROACH
THIS SHOULD NOT HAPPEN.
Change the oil and filter again in a month or so, depending how much you
drive it.
Optional: the valve cover (rocker box) is easily removed and you can check
and clean the top end - do this just before the second oil change.
Also drain and fill the trans and rear end lubricants with the suggested fluids.
Also check the hydraulic brake system and gas tank for crud.
Cheers
Rick Feibusch
Venice, CA
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