Hi Gang,
I have been following this chassis painting thread and wanted to
throw in my 2 cents. I was led to believe that one should not use
a paint like Por 15 or the one Harold suggested, because a Morgan
chassis 'flexes' as part of it's handling characteristics, and
these paints will ultimately crack allowing water to penetrate, or
flake off. This is why the factory ultimately went with a
'galvanizing' process, because it was the only thing they found
was unaffected by the flexing.
I am soon to be in a similar situation myself here in the states,
I was going to look into powder coating, I don't know it the fact
that it is electronically adhered to the chassis will help prevent
the cracking over time.
Regards,
Jeff Webster
Buy Classic Cars from America!
Http://www.BuyClassicCars.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-morgans@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-morgans@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of
> Harald Sakshaug
> Sent: Monday, December 04, 2000 5:01 AM
> To: morgans@autox.team.net
> Subject: SV: [Chassis Painting]
>
>
> I use an Offshore paint called Jotamastic 87. The stuff
> is used on Norwegian
> Offshore installations. The stuff is painted onto bare
> metal and dropped
> into the ocean. This stuff is very poisonous and fresh
> air mask is required,
> but it is so hard one need to use some kind of grinding
> tool to get it off.
> The paint contains zink, and is self repairing (if it
> is at all possible to
> scratch this paint ;).
>
> The paint is a two component and hardens a 100%. Rock
> hard and in different
> colours. The paint can be coated with 2K acrylic
> carpaint without problems,
> and it looks very good having the cars original shiny
> colours under the
> wings on autoshows !
>
> I would presume it is difficult to sand blast this
> paint off the car, and it
> must be applied with a hight pressure spray gun, or by
> a paint brush. I
> usually paint it with a brush, and dip the brush on the
> surfaces creating a
> "undercoat lookalike" surface. And if you have "ugly"
> looking welds (like
> me), the paint will cover them perfectly... ;)
>
> The paint cost about $65 pr. 3 litres and is definately
> worth the price.
> Once applied you can forget all about corrotion. I have used it
> silvercoloured on frames, and black under the car.
> Wonderful stuff, but
> makes your brain into a sponge within minutes if you
> don't wear a carbon
> filter mask, or preferably fresh air mask. (Paint
> outdoors, use carbon mask)
> You may find product on Jotuns pages at:
>
> www.jotun.com search for jotamastic 87, there is a
> product brochure and
> pictures.
>
> Brgs,
> Harald Sakshaug
>
>
> -----Opprinnelig melding-----
> Fra: Rick Williams [mailto:rawmorgan@netscape.net]
> Sendt: 4. desember 2000 03:51
> Til: morgans@autox.team.net
> Emne: Re: [Chassis Painting]
>
>
> Mike,
>
> I used Por 15 gloss black with an overcoat of satin
> black trim paint from a
> spray can. The Por 15 really grabs onto a rusty surface
> and dries rock hard.
> I
> recommend the gloss Por 15, as I tried the satin
> product and got variable
> results on the quality of the finish. It's expensive at
> about $30 / quart,
> but
> I think it is worth it.
>
> Rick Williams
> '51 Plus 4 #P2234
>
> "Mike Dixon" <mike.dixon@virgin.net> wrote:
> > With the dreadful weather we are having I give in. I
> am happy to go out
> in
> > the Mog when its a bit wet but this.......
> >
> > I have therefore decided to attack the surface rust
> on the chassis - well
> > that I can get at with a wire brush from under the
> car. Once cleaned up
> the
> > question is what to paint it with. The options I
> have identified are:
> >
> > Chassis black
> > Smoothright
> > Brushing Gloss
> >
> > Once done perhaps some Waxoyl?
> >
> > I wondered what the views of the DG were?
> >
> > Mike Dixon
> >
> > 71 4/4
>
>
> ________________________________________________________
> ____________
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