Scott,
Yes, I was assuming that you would be drilling pilot holes but if you use a
"normal" drill bit, you end up with a pilot hole with a constant diameter.
A properly drilled hole for a countersunk screw has three regions: the
diameter where the threads go should be smaller than the part where there
are no threads (I can't think of the name of that part, could be "shank").
Near the surface, there should be a "dimple" for the recessed head. You can
get drill bits that will drill all this in one pass. If you do it the way I
describe, the wood will not split because the threads will "bite" into the
wood and there is enough tolerance for the "shank" of the screw. If you use
a "normal" drill bit, you have to compromise and either make the hole too
small for the "shank" or too bit for the threads of the screw to "bite."
I see no problem with grinding off the excess of the screws that protrudes,
but keep in mind that the aspect ratio of most screws is reasonably
constant, so a screw that is longer than it needs to be is also going to be
"fatter" than it needs to be and will need a bigger hole, which may weaken
the wood. If you do grind off the excess, this would be another reason to
stay away from galvanized screws. Considering the amount of effort and
money involved in a restoration project, I'd go with the best materials.
Boy, giving advice is sure a lot simpler than doing the work myself!
All the best,
Chuck
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From: Scott Seidler[SMTP:sseidler@easterndatacomm.com]
Sent: Friday March 17, 2000 11:58 AM
To: 'Vandergraaf, Chuck'; Scott Seidler
Cc: Morgans@Autox.Team.Net (E-mail)
Subject: RE: Wood Frame Assembly
Chuck,
I am assuming Im drilling pilot holes ad the coutersnking right?
After that
will a cordless screwdriver split the wood? I should think it wont
if the
pilot holes are drilled right. And what about getting screws longer
than the
pieces and then grinding off the protruding ends??
Thanks,
--Scott
-----Original Message-----
From: Vandergraaf, Chuck [mailto:vandergraaft@aecl.ca]
Sent: Friday, March 17, 2000 12:50 PM
To: 'Scott Seidler'
Cc: Morgans@Autox.Team.Net (E-mail)
Subject: RE: Wood Frame Assembly
Scott,
I've built "space frame," canvas-covered kayaks and used brass
screws and
brass tacks throughout. I also used a resin-type glue. Thirty
years later,
these screws and tacks are still holding what they are supposed to.
I'd
stay away from galvanized screws. I would think that, if the zinc
coating
comes off during installation, you might end up with an oxidation
problem.
One suggestion when you put the screws in: buy or expropriate a
piece of
sealing wax (Esso has something like Parawax or something like that)
used to
put a seal on home-canned foods. Run the threads of the screw over
the wax
to put a thin layer of wax on the threads. It makes a world of
difference
by reducing the effort needed to screw the screws into the wood.
Ash, as I
recall, is a hard wood, like maple, and doesn't "give" as much as
soft woods
such as fir and pine. When you drill the holes, use a proper drill
bit set
that lets you countersink the screws. I treat hard woods like maple
almost
as a metal because it doesn't have much "give."
BTW, I assume that the frame is made with wood that has been treated
with a
preservative. If not, slather on some preservative or, better yet,
soak it
in preservative for some time.
I don't know where you are located, but you may want to check the
following
web site for information on wood working: http://www.leevalley.ca
Lee
Valley Tools is an excellent source of information and tools. Usual
disclaimer.
Hope this will be at least of some help to you.
All the best,
Chuck Vandergraaf
'52 +4
Pinawa, MB
----------
From: Scott Seidler[SMTP:sseidler@easterndatacomm.com]
Sent: Friday March 17, 2000 11:06 AM
To: Morgans@Autox.Team.Net (E-mail)
Subject: Wood Frame Assembly
Hello Fellow Morganites and Morganettes,
I am starting assembly of the wood frame on the +4 (4seat)
I have a questions regarding bolts/screws.
Forgetting the original set up for the time being - what is
the best
(or
preferred) modern way to assemble and affix the wood chasis.
Ive
seen screws
completely through and ground off on the inside (seemed
pretty tight
to me.
And Ive read short screws so as they dont come through at
all.
What about through bolting perhaps? And what of glue?
should there
be any
on the joints? Which types of screws would be
needed/recommended
(stainless,
brass, galvanized?)
OK listers - new string - and I want to start this weekend
too!
--Scott
56 +4 4 Seat (more or less)
Scott Seidler
Senior Network Engineer, Sales.
Eastern DataComm, Inc.
Phone: 201-457-3311
Fax: 201-457-1811
Project Web Site: http://members.tripod.com/scottsmog
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