Oil is added to the steering box through a hole that is about 1 foot up the
tube from the box itself. The hole is sealed with a rubber plug. Pry it
out carefully so as not to teaar it and add 90 ep gear oil until the tube is
full up to the hole. recheck it again after a day or two or after a drive.
The oil will run down into the box if the level was low. You may add
Molybdenum disulfide extreme pressure additives with benificial effect to
the longevity and to slightly reduce the required steering effort.
Lubeguard also makes a very good "friction modifier" additive that we use at
the Engine Room to reduce the steering effort. The description above is
correct for a +4.
For a +8 the box is filled through a filler plug on the top of the box.
There are on the top cover of the box 3 fixing bolts, 1 filler plug, and 1
adjustment screw with a locking nut around it. The adjustment screw is used
to initially adjust the play and fit between the worm and the peg that is
attached to the "sector shaft" which comes down through the bottom of the
box and has the pittman arm on it. A box needs work when it 1. leaks oil out
the seal on the bottom, 2. when the play at the steering wheel exceeds about
3/4 of an inch after the box has been adjusted, 3. when there is any end
float or endwise movement of the inner steering column within the steering
column housing, 4. whenever there is any "lumpiness" or undue stiffness in
the steering which cannot be attributed to stiff kingpins, bad tie rod ends
or an out of adjustment steering box.
Regards, Greg Solow
----- Original Message -----
From: L.D. McLaughlin, Jr. <ldmcjr@zebra.net>
To: Morgan Mailing List <morgans@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 24, 1999 8:41 PM
Subject: Re: Early +4 Steering box
> Hey Guys,
>
> Sorry to show my ignorance, but how can you tell when you need to replace
a
> steering box or fix it at all? ... And how and where do you lubricate it?
> I've looked at it on mine ('71 Plus 8) and have no idea -
>
> Thanks!
>
> Tony
>
> --
> http://www.gcnd.net/morganville
>
> ldmcjr@zebra.net
>
>
> > The pin is very hard and I doubt that any k ind of a "wallop" that you
can
> > give it would havea any benificial effect. New pegs are available and
it is
> > possible to press out the old peg and press in a new one. The worms
also
> > wear over time and so do the sector shafts and the bush for it in the
body
> > of the sterring box. We sometimes have to bjore out the body of the box
and
> > istall a 2'nd bushing where the sector shaft originally ran directly on
the
> > cast body of the box. This is quite usual when the box has been run
low on
> > oil for any length of time.
> > Regards,
> > Greg Solow
> >
> > The Engine Room
> >
> > Santa Cruz, Ca. --- Original Message -----
> > From: <TrmpetDave@aol.com>
> > To: <ecummins@bellsouth.net>; <morgans@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Saturday, October 23, 1999 10:01 PM
> > Subject: Re: Early +4 Steering box
> >
> >
> >>
> >> In a message dated 10/23/99 8:09:15 AM, ecummins@bellsouth.net writes:
> >>
> >> <<I need some expert opinions on the early +4 seering box , 1959
> > specifically.
> >>
> >> I am contemplating rebuilding all or part of it.
> >> >>
> >>
> >> I read somewhere, years ago, possible in Miscellany, that when the
> > steering
> >> becomes loose, taking out the peg, and giving it an almighty wallop on
its
> >> point with a large hammer would correct the situation, by widening the
> > peg.
> >> Has any one else heard of this, or tried it? When the steering on my
'71
> > +8
> >> loosened, I got a Gemma box, which works ok, except that it needs a
> > hydraulic
> >> steering stabilizer to deaden the shimmy-I use one designed for a VW
van.
> > I
> >> still have the original box, however and one of these days may try the
> > hammer
> >> trick. Dave Collins, San Diego
> >>
> >
>
>
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