Vandergraaf, Chuck wrote:
>
> Rudy, et al.,
>
> In addition to Bob's excellent advice, I would suggest that, before screwing
> the screws into the wood, you run the threads over some wax, either a candle
> or paraffin canning wax. This puts a very thin layer of wax on the surface
> of the threads and greatly reduces friction. I speak from experience
> (although the idea didn't originate with me). I have no proof, but I would
> think that there is enough friction to soften the wax sufficiently to coat
> the threads sufficiently and also provides a barrier between the wood and
> the metal.
>
> You may also check out what Lee Valley Tools has available in the way of
> screws. Lee Valley Tools is one of those rare companies that exist for the
> benefit of the craftsman and gardener, not to maximize profits to the owner.
> At one time they carried Spax screws, but I have not seen them in this
> year's catalog. These have a serrated edge at the threads and are said to
> reduce friction. The Lee Valley catalog states that "... they can be driven
> into solid birch or maple without pre-drilling." (not that I would advise
> this, but it does make a point).
>
> >From another Lee Valley catalog, I quote the following: "The effect of high
> humidity, salt water or chemically treated timber on fasteners can be
> significant. For maximum durability and unstained surfaces, either with
> exterior projects or in boatbuilding, the use of copper, brass, stainless
> steel or silicon bronze is recommended. For areas where the rain is acidic,
> or if the wood has been treated with arsenates (such as on sidings or
> decks), stainless steel is best. Our stainless steel are nickel/chromium.
> The #304 and #305 stainless steel provide adequate protection in most
> outdoor applications. The #316 stainless steel provides the best resistance
> to seawater [or, probably, road salt, my comment] as it has more nickel and
> 2% to 3% molybdenum. Silicon bronze contains no iron, so will not leave
> rust marks. Our silicon bronze nails have annular ring threads to maximize
> holding power and resistance to withdrawal." (1998/99 catalog, p. 113)
>
> You can check this company out at http://www.leevalley.com
>
> I have no connection with them, but I can't resist shopping in one of their
> stores.
>
> Chuck Vandergraaf
> '52 +4
> Pinawa, MB
> > ----------
> > From: Bob Nogueira[SMTP:nogera@prodigy.net]
> > Reply To: Bob Nogueira
> > Sent: Tuesday, October 12, 1999 6:36 PM
> > To: re3@ix.netcom.com; aMORGANS@autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: wood frame question
> >
> > -- [ From: Bob Nogueira * EMC.Ver #3.1a ] --
> >
> > Rudy
> > Some will say stainless steel but SS is not as strong as mild steel .
> > Brass
> > is too soft for the hard ash wood. You will end up breaking the screw off
> > in the hole or will have to drill a hole so oversized to keep from
> > breaking
> > the screw it won't hold . I used plated mild steel with the
> > justification that if the screw got wet enough to rust it really wasn't
> > going to matter because the wood would be rotted and the sheet metal long
> > gone by that time .
> > The factory glued all the vertical joints but not the horizontal joints (
> > I
> > may have that backwards ) .I glued all my joints and have not seen any
> > problem as a result.
> > Now get out there and screw around with that Morgan !!!
> > Bob Nogueira
> > -------- REPLY, Original message follows --------
> >
> > > Date: Tuesday, 12-Oct-99 09:04 AM
> > >
> > > From: re3@ix.netcom.com \ Internet: (re3@ix.netcom.com)
> > > To: MORGANS \ Internet: (morgans@autox.team.net)
> > >
> > > Subject: wood frame question
> > >
> > > I have a 1967 plus 4, 4 seater, and am in the midst of a ground up
> > restoration.
> > > I am doing the
> > > frame at this time and have a few questions:
> > > 1. What type of screws should I be using? At this point I am using
> > silicon
> > > bronze screws but
> > > wonder if I should us stainless steel instead?
> > >
> > > 2. Does anyone glue the frame together or is glue a bad idea?
> > >
> > > 3. I need a picture of how the rear braces to the left and right of the
> > spare
> > > fit in place. They were gone on my car and I have purchased them new
> > from
> > the
> > > factory but do not know their exact location.
> > >
> > > That's it for today,
> > > Thank you,
> > > Rudy
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> > -------- REPLY, End of original message --------
> >
> >
> >
> >
Brethren
I totally subscribe to Chucks suggestions. I am just about finished
building a new wooden tub for the daughters '57 Plus 4 and have
finished a wooden tub for Angus my '33 Super Sport and have used Lee
Valley Tools screws with great success also I too for one use wax on my
screws. However until final assembly I do not use the screw length that
I intend to use. I use a shorter screw so that the wood does not become
over extended. There are other tricks but ,,,
Toad
'57 Plus 4
'59 Plus 4
and Angus my 33 Super Sport.
|