Thanks to Greg, John, Fred, everyone. I didn't realize how interesting this
topic would be. It seem like a simple problem, but if you have an old car
these little things are an every day problem. It's great that you are willing
to help.
Ed.
Greg Solow wrote:
> Your starter has a "bonded" rubber drive that connects the drive gear on the
> starter to the shaft. The rubber inside the coupling comes unbonded from
> its housing and basically "slips". I have temporarily repaired them by
> taking them apart and reglueing them together with "superglue" type anerobic
> adhesive. This "temporary repair has actually lasted many years. There is
> a replacement drive available for around $100. 00 that is a good permenant
> fix. I have seen brain dead electrical rebuilders weld this drive up solid
> in an attempt to fix it. This doesn't work as the stater needs the
> cushioning that the rubber provides. Without this cushioning effect, the
> teeth of the ring gears get sheared off when you try to start the car.
>
> Regards, Greg Solow
> -----Original Message-----
> From: John T. Blair <jblair@exis.net>
> To: edherman@concentric.net <edherman@concentric.net>;
> morgans@autox.team.net <morgans@autox.team.net>
> Date: Wednesday, September 15, 1999 3:29 PM
> Subject: +4 Starters
>
> >At 02:20 PM 9/15/99 -0400, ed herman wrote:
> >
> >>I've got the bullet nose type, and the "clutch is not engaging" according
> >>to the locals.
> >
> >
> >Ed,
> >
> > You say the "clutch is NOT engaging". When you hit the ign. switch,
> >do you hear the starter spin up, but it doesn't crank then eng?
> >
> > If so, I won't sware to it, but try cleaning the bendix. This is a very
> >common problem with the inertial type starters. My 67 Spit used to do that
> >all the time (well about every 9 mo.) Simply remove the starter and clean
> >the bendix down using a brush and a good solvent like varsol, etc. Then
> >wash it off with a hose (as much pressure as you can get). According to
> my
> >books there really isn't a clutch in the starter. Check you my article on
> >starters on the Morgan web page (below).
> >
> >Based on this discussion, I'm trying to update the "Starter" article. But
> >it will be a few days before it is online.
> >
> >John
> >
> >---------------------
> >
> >>
> >>"John T. Blair" wrote:
> >>
> >>> At 08:16 AM 9/15/99 -0400, you wrote:
> >>> >Lorne,
> >>> > I have a question for the panel. I took the starter, from my 58
> >>> >DHC, a TR 3, to a well respected repair shop her in Baltimore. They
> have
> >>> >no records on and thing past the 1960s. How do we get the old Morgan
> >>> >stuff repaired in original condition? What should we be looking for
> when
> >>> >we have a minor repair?
> >>>
> >>> Ed,
> >>>
> >>> According to my TR3 manual your starter is a Lucas M418G and intertia
> >>> drive type (see article on starters on Morgan web page). There are 2
> >>> types the "eclipse" and the "S" types. From what I can tell alot of the
> >>> parts for the casings are interchangable (but not the armatures). The
> only
> >>> visable difference is that the "Eclipse" has a hood over the and the
> actual
> >>> drive mech is different.
> >>>
> >>> The Brushes are Lucas 255659 (for both). What do you need for it? I
> don't
> >>> have any parts, but do have some info on them.
> >>>
> >>> John
> >
> >----------------------
> >
> >
> >John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair@exis.net
> >Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229
> >
> > 48 TR1800 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1109)
> >71 Saab Sonett III (71500840) 75 Bricklin SV1 (0887) 77 Spitfire
> >
> >Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan
> >Bricklin: www.bricklin.org
> >
> >
> >
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