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LMG
GoMoG at
http://www.angelfire.com/mi/GoMoG/
If your coolant is boiling at 220-230 you have either
a improper anti-freeze water mixture (unlikely) or
(more likely) a defective radiator cap. 15 pounds of
pressure significantly raises the temperature that the
coolant will boil at. If the spring in the old cap is
gone or going..(happens often and easy to fix) you will
boil at lower temps. As you noted, your temperature is
now the same with the aluminum rad in traffic but
there is no boiling..ergo better cap on new rad.
I never had boiling but I didn't like the temps. I was
about to buy an aluminum rad but opted instead for a
Plus 8 airscoop and a high powered fan. At speed, the
airscoop is very efficent and brings the temp down in
minutes. In stop and go traffic on a very hot day, the
fan holds the temperature under 110C.
Lorne
1984 Plus 8 EFI
On Tue, 14 Sep 1999 10:08:27 BradFarr wrote:
>
>In a message dated 9/14/99 12:48:02 AM, Ross.Stein@kp.org writes:
>
>>At a steady 65-70 mph, ambient temp about
>>70 deg F. , the temp is steady at 95 deg C. (203 deg F.), with a brief
>>rise of 10 deg going uphill,
>
>My '95 Plus 8 would indicate similar temperatures (although I have not tested
>the gauge independently). On a 90 deg. F day, in stop and go traffic, the
>temperature of the coolant would rise to an indicated 220 - 230 degrees and
>the coolant would begin to boil and cause coolant loss, even with the
>recovery system. I installed an aluminum radiator, which has prevented any
>boilovers this summer, but I can still see 220 (or higher) on the gauge on a
>hot day. (BTW, the timing is correct, and the electric fan works.) To have a
>temperature gauge that reads a constant temperature regardless of ambient
>temperature or driving conditions is still on the wish list.
>Brad
>
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