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Re: Seized clutch

To: Harald Sakshaug <harald.sakshaug@datapower.no>, Morgans@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Seized clutch
From: Jane McDaid <Murphys@ziplink.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Jun 1999 08:33:59 -0400
Try this before dismantling anything.

Tow the car slowly along the street in third gear with the ignition off and
the clutch pedal depressed. About 40 feet did it for me. My car had sat
unused for only about three or four years.

Jerry Murphy
'67 +4 6676

At 12:03 PM 6/23/99 +0200, Harald Sakshaug wrote:
>Hi there fellow Morganeers:
>
>I have read several places including documentation for about how to free
>seized clutches.
>Most common is the jacking up and using the rear brakes in low gear with
>engine pulling.
>This did not work with my #3254 which had stood unused for 8 years.
>I tried several times to brake the disk away from the flywheel and
>pressureplate with no luck.
>
>I did not want to take the engine out, both because everything was
>working very well (except the stuck clutch) and the problem with taking
>out the radiator on cowled rad Morgans.
>
>I came up with a really neat and easy solution for loosing the clutch. I
>will write a complete article about this and post to John T. Blair's
>pages, but here is the "trick" in simple words:
>
>All +4's and early 4/4's had a propshaft tunnel between the engine and
>the gearbox. This enables to remove the gearbox inside the car within
>minutes. Between the gearbox and engine there is a propshaft which can
>be taken out for inspection.
>When struggling with seized clutches, the poblem can vary, the clutch
>can be "rustwelded" agains the flywheel and/or pressureplate, or the
>disk itself can't be moved along the propshaft due to corrosion.
>
>My car had no corrosion on the propshaft, but I took out it out and
>cleaned it using a small amount of CRC-506 for oiling the splines. Then
>I put back the propshaft verifiing that it went all the way into the
>bushing in the flywheel, I pressed down the clutch pedal fully engaging
>the clutch, whiggled the propshaft up/down left/right a little bit, and
>the disk loosened from the flywheel with a little snap as easy as
>nothing. I assembeled an tried  the clutch, and it was working
>wonderful.
>
>This whole job including removal of interior and gearbox and assembly
>took me two hours. Easy job. :-)
>Moss Motors have a solution to jack up the back wheels with a garage
>jack and driving in high gear with engine running at aprox. 1500 rpm. A
>sudden drop on the jack should make the back wheels touch the ground so
>hard, that the clutch would loosen. I did not dare to try this because I
>am afraid of my Salibury back axle and Moss gearbox. They are old and
>fragile and hard to find parts for. It could have worked, but who knows
>if damage would happen. It is pretty rough having the back wheels
>running at 30-40 miles pr. hour and give them a sudden stop in a
>fraction of a second....
>
>I don't know if my solution is hard to the bearing for the propshaft,
>but it seems OK afterwards. Try this on your own risc, but it worked
>fine for me. From now on I shall make a small wooden pole to press the
>clutch halfway in, releasing the pressure on the disk during winter, or
>better, start her up now and then and run the engine engaging the
>clutch... :-)
>
>Best Regards to you all, 
>
>>                _\\///_      
>>               (' O-O ')        EMAIL:  Harald.Sakshaug@DataPower.NO
>>          -ooO-(_)-Ooo-------  Harald Sakshaug  -- 74160652  -----
>>                                        URL:
>> http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/3011/
>> 
>> 
>
>


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