Vandergraaf, Chuck wrote:
>
> Don,
>
> Thanks for this information; it is very helpful to those of us who are
> contemplating switching over to negative ground (or earth). I have four
> questions:
>
> 1. if the only vulnerable part is the voltage regulator (my '52 does not
> have a radio), can I substitute a proper voltage regulator, i.e., one
> designed for negative ground?
* Everything seemed vulnerable. An alternator would be vulnerable.
Other equipments designed in the 20th c. might be vulnerable. My other
cars didn't catch fire as I drove down the road. My mother almost had
to do a jump-and-roll like Masten "Crash-and-Burn" Gregory.
*
> 2. I've heard that one of the reasons for accelerated rusting of LBCs is
> that they came with positive ground. Is there any truth to this rumour? I
> somehow doubt it, considering the number of rusted Hyundais, Toyotae and
> Hondae I have seen.
* The polarity doesn't matter for rusting. It's the voltage potential
and the difference between two dissimilar metals. Remember aluminum
wiring for houses? Our Morgan - "The Green Hornet" - had shorts, opens,
and floating earths. Why not get a new harness - one not covered wwith
paper, cloth, wood and scotch tape? One designed for the car.
> 3. what is the advantage to switching over to negative ground?
* It helps in America. Do you want to have someone jump it backwards?
We also drive on the right. *
> 4. isn't the engine already grounded through the bolts that hold the engine
> to the frame or is the resistance through the bolts too high?
>
* I've seen this to be a big problem on other cars like Alfas .
* Why not add another ground strap from the transmission to the frame ?
* Why not add a hidden heavy-duty cut-off switch to deter theft ?
* Isn't there another way to clean cream switches than sandpaper ?
* Are they bakelite? Bowling ball cleaner might work.
> Thanks again.
>
> Chuck Vandergraaf
*You're welcome*
*Ben Palmer*
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