I have had my car since 1965 when I purchased it new. The only problem I
have had with my gas tank , and I have seen the same problem in many other
cars, was that the two baffles which run fore and aft dividing the tank
roughly in thirds, came unsoldered from the inside of the tank and fell to
the bottom where they would slide around and sometimes interfere with the
correct functioning of the fuel gauge. To repair this, I ultimately
drilled 8 holes through the sides of the tank so that the baffles could be
pop riveted into place securely. Then the steel pop rivets were silver
soldered over to plug the holes . There have been no problems since. I
believe that the original mounting, solidly on good wood boards is an
excellent solution. The leaks are caused by either the boards coming adrift
from the chassis, or the tank itself coming loose from the beards and moving
around then stressing the soldered joints. The two wooden boards are
fastened together by two metal straps that are screwed into the wood. Then
the boards are fastened to the fuel tank by four bolts that pass through the
mounting brackets that are soldered to the ends of the tank. Then this
whole rigid assembly is attached to the frame by THREE screws ONLY. There
is a good reason for that. THREE POINTS DETERMINE A PLANE. With the board
platform attached in this manner, the boards and the tank form one unit that
is insulated form any flexing of the frame, i.e.. the frame can move around
but the tank will not be "bent" or twisted. .
My recommendation is to do a good solder job on the tank. Secure the
baffles if they have come loose. (You can see them with a mirror and a light
through the sending unit hole). If the tank is not rusty inside DON'T seal
it. I believe that "sealing" is to stop or prevent rust, not stop leaks.
Make sure that the support boards are in good shape, especially at the
forward corners where the two front bolts that go through the chassis are
located. Tighten everything up and keep it tight and you should have no
problems.
We have found that most of the engineering that went into Morgans was
and is quite good. MOST THINGS DO N0T need to be reengineered! The areas
where things can really be improved are in the fit and finish and sometimes
in the materials used. Morgans were "Built to a price" during the sixties,
remember a new +4 cost more that an MG-B, but less that an Austin Healey
3000. The way Morgan kept the price down was by using the least expensive
materials that would do the job, and I don't necessarily think that there
was any thought of the cars being on the road 30 years later. After all, by
1964, when I first visited the factory, the 3 wheeler was really an orphan,
as far as Morgan was concerned, and the last one produced was only 11 years
old then.
Regards,
Greg Solow
-----Original Message-----
From: Phil Roettjer <Phil.Roettjer@quantum.com>
To: morgans@autox.team.net <morgans@autox.team.net>
Date: Tuesday, February 16, 1999 5:11 PM
Subject: RE: Morgan Gas Tank
> I have the gas tank out of my +4 since it was also leaking. What I
>discovered is there are stress points at the bottom where the sides of the
>tank are soldered on. There are two bolt holes on the flanges on each side
>and the side-to-side motion of the car plus vibrations puts tremendous
>stress on these solder joints. So any padding that would allow the stress
to
>be transferred away from these joints should be beneficial. The leaking
>problem in my car is not due to corrosion, but due to breaking the solder
>joints at these stress points. So I do plan to have some sort of rubber or
>padding at the bolting points to help relieve the stress. I would also
>recommend sealing the inside of the tank with a compound such as the POR15
>tank sealer.
>
> I would welcome any other suggestions.
>
> Regards,
> Phil Roettjer
> 1967 +4
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Jane McDaid [SMTP:Murphys@ziplink.net]
>> Sent: Tuesday, February 16, 1999 5:36 PM
>> To: hals@ix.netcom.com; jpavone@vanstar.com
>> Cc: morgans@autox.team.net
>> Subject: Re: Morgan Gas Tank
>>
>> Or the silicone trapped moisture between the boards and the tank? Morgans
>> need plenty of ventilation!
>>
>> Jerry
>>
>> At 03:21 PM 2/16/99 -0600, hals@ix.netcom.com wrote:
>> >what a fancy way of mounting - with a bead of silicone - my old tank is
>> just
>> >bolted squarely and firmly down to the wooden planks that form my back
>> >platform.
>> >mayhaps the tank needs that firmer support??, or the seal that was used
>> >would have let go regardless..
>> >
>> >
>> >On 02/16/99 08:51:17 you wrote:
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>I've just sent my 4/4 gas tank to the folks at Gas Tank Renu as it has
>> >>started to leak just one driving season into it's Lifetime warranty. I
>> >>assume this was due to a screw up during the "renuing" process, but I
>> can't
>> >>help wondering if vibration may have caused this. The tank was mounted
>> on
>> >>the boards with a bead of black silicone in between. Anyone know of a
>> >>better way to mount the tank to help reduce vibration?
>> >>
>> >>Regards,
>> >>
>> >>John
>> >>
>> >>59' 4/4
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>
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