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Re: Oil Cooler Installation

To: morgans@Autox.Team.Net, apicciotto@wccusd.k12.ca.us (Armando Picciotto)
Subject: Re: Oil Cooler Installation
From: ebrown@ms.com
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 1997 08:06:25 -0400
     Armando-
     
     Thanks for a thorough and well thought out write up. A few questions: 
     (1) Phone # for Moss (2) Do you still have the original oil filter 
     set-up, or have you replaced it with one of the canister adapter kits? 
     (3) Do you have some sort of protective screen in front of the filter 
     to keep pebbles or other road debris from perforating the cooler? (4) 
     Do you have a visual or audible warning indicator for low oil pressure 
     with your +4?
     
     I will be definitely following you down the oil cooler road and think 
     your report will be a tremendous help in this regard.
     
     -Chip  Brown


______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Oil Cooler Installation
Author:  apicciotto@wccusd.k12.ca.us (Armando Picciotto) at nylanr01
Date:    7/7/97 8:31 PM


Is there a better way to spend your Fourth of July weekend other than 
installing an oil cooler in your Morgan?  Don't answer that.  Anyway, if 
you want to know about the trials and tribulations of fitting one to a 
+4 read on.
     
UPS delivered my oil cooler kit from Moss ($229.00 total) on Thursday, 
so why not use the three day weekend to put it on?  The kit consists of 
a 13-row cooler (13"X4"), two stainless steel hoses with brass fittings 
(with rubber hoses, it costs $10.00 less), an adapter that fits between 
the engine and the oil filter head, bolt extensions so you can use your 
existing oil filter head bolts, plates with holes to mount the cooler, 
and bolts to mount the cooler to the plates.  No gaskets are included, 
so make sure you order at least two of them (one between the adapter and 
the engine and one between the adapter and the oil filter head).  They 
are only 75 cents each, so you may want to order more in case you need 
them in the future (like when you want to take the thing off).  No 
instructions are included.
     
I first removed the oil filter and the three bolts and a nut holding the 
filter head to the engine.  The nut screws into a bolt that is itself 
screwed into the engine (what do you call a bolt with no head with 
different threads at each end?).  It holds the line to the oil pressure 
gauge, so handle with care.  I had to remove this two-sided bolt with 
lock pliers, grabbing it in the center where there is no thread.  A 
slight rap on the filter head unstuck the head from the engine.  After 
removing the old gasket from the head (I had to do some careful scraping 
to get it off) and removing grime that was previously inaccessible, I 
held one of the new gaskets against the engine opening and screwed the 
four bolt extenders in  (don't reverse this process since the gasket 
holes are too small to slide through the bolt extenders).  The adapter 
has two brass fittings (one for each hose) at a slight angle so when the 
hoses are attached they will move away from the engine block.  It slides 
easily into the bolt extenders.  I placed the three original bolts back 
into the filter head and slid the other gasket into place.  I then placed 
the filter head assembly against the adapter and hand tightened the three 
bolts.  The two-threaded gizmo went on last, followed by the oil pressure 
line and the nut holding it in place.  After properly tightening the 
three bolts and nut, everything seemed to be going just fine, until.
     
I guess the kit is really designed for a TR3, not a Morgan.  When you 
try to install the hoses to the fittings on the adapter, the engine 
mount bracket is in the way of the top hose!  Not by much, but in the 
way nevertheless.  In the Moss catalog, the nice glossy picture shows 
the hose having two fittings, a right angle one and 45 degree one. Well, 
you don't get a 45 degree one.  You get a right angle and a straight 
through one.  After considering all my options (calling Moss, getting 45 
degree adapter fittings, etc.), I decided it would be nice to keep a 
straight through shot out of the adapter to avoid kinking the hose, and 
I could do this by filing off about 1/4" off the offending engine mount. 
 I figured 1/4" out of a corner of the mount would not cause the engine 
to fall off.  I did just that and the hose now clears the mount with 
about 1/8" to spare.  Don't tighten the hoses into the adapter until you 
install them in the cooler to avoid twisting the hose.
     
Next came mounting the cooler itself.  Since by now it was dark, I 
decided to call it quits until the next day.  But first, I spray painted 
the cooler with a couple of coats of high heat black paint so it 
wouldn't look too obtrusive.  The spray paint did not clog any of the 
air passages and the cooler looked pretty nice black rather than
silver.  The next morning I installed the cooler about 4" behind the 
grill with its base at the level of the shelf behind the grill.  This 
position placed it about 4" in front the radiator.  The top edge of the 
cooler itself  is higher than the base of the radiator by less than two 
inches, so I figured there wouldn't be too much obstruction to the air 
flow into the radiator.  I used the mounting plates to attach the cooler 
to the side shrouds (after bending them and cutting them to size), and 
painted everything black.  The hoses were too long, but you can't cut 
them because the fittings are an integral part of them.  I hanged one of 
the hoses from the bottom right radiator bracket and attached it to the 
left cooler inlet.  I did the same with the other hose, hanging it from 
the bottom left radiator bracket and attaching it to the right cooler 
inlet.  The lengths of the hoses is perfect for crossing them like this, 
and everything looks nice and neat, with plenty of clearance between the 
hoses and all the rods and whatevers of the car's front end.  I also 
figured that the longer stainless hoses would also serve as a radiator of 
heat, increasing cooling capacity (yeah, I know, I always look at the 
bright side).  I then remembered to tighten the hoses at the adapter end 
and inserted a new oil filter.  Now to test it all.
     
I ran the engine for a few minutes with no oil leaks showing up.  The 
oil cooler heated up gradually, so oil was certainly flowing into it.  I 
also watched how the engine moved with respect to the engine mount and 
the hose close to it to make sure there was no chance of a collision. 
The engine twist seemed to move the hose parallel to the offending mount 
and the clearance did not decrease, so I think I'm safe there, but I'll 
keep my eye on it.  The road test was a success.  The engine does run 
cooler as measured by my fairly accurate temp gauge hidden behind the 
dash, but a thorough test of it will have to wait until Mog West later 
this month, when about 50 to 70 Morgans meet in central California for 
their yearly ritual.  It's over a 500 mile round trip, parts of it 
through the hot interior valleys.  The cooler should show it's worth at 
high speeds with lots of air blowing through it.  By the way, you can 
barely see it behind the grille, so overall, I'm quite pleased with it. 
If you are thinking of installing a cooler yourself, take a close look 
at the fittings that come with the hoses.  You may be able to avoid my 
problems.
     
Armando Picciotto
'63 +4

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