In response to David's queries below
Current wood frames obtained from the Factory are Tanalised and have been so
since about 1986. This is a wood treatment used in house building and in
the manufacture of fence posts. It does not guarantee complete freedom from
rot when you park your Morgan in a stream, but I for one prefer not to do
that. The protection works best when there is a "free" flow of air to keep
the surface dryish but even where there is not (such as the bottom end of a
fence post) then a considerable extension of life should be experienced.
Hard skinned or sealant type paints will offer additional protection if, and
only if, you can guarantee that the skin doesn't split in use. Should
splitting occur then they tend to lock moisture in through capillary effects
rather than keep it out. This effect is readily observable in old untreated
softwood window frames (in the UK at least). Unfortunately this may also
occur at joints and where body panels are closely attached. Bearing in mind
the amount of flex deliberately(?) built in to a Morgan chassis it is
unlikely that the paint skin would remain continuous.
Whatever measures you take then ensuring that your Morgan is dried
effectively after each swim will help. There are three possible approaches
in the garage
Invest in a dehumidifier (not too strong or the leather will split)
one of those CarCoon things (also works outside)
or even a couple of fans to keep the air moving and a heater to raise the
temperature and hence lower the humidity.
Some swear by keeping the car outside and therefore in the wind.
Dave Vodden
1992 Plus 4 4 Seater (Hardly ever driven in the dry owing to local weather)
Hampshire; UK
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From: morgans-owner
To: morgans
Subject: Proper paint for wood framing
Date: 18 February 1997 11:07
Fellow Morganeers,
I am currently preping my body frame for mounting to chassis. Due to the
poor condition of the original body, I purchased a body from the factory.
I read that an additional way to preserve the wood was to paint the wood.
I purchased a brand of marine paint called Easypoxy manufactured by Pettit.
Originally I had planned to only paint the underside of the sealboards and
inside the rear wheel well. Recently I was speaking to John Sheally about
my restoration. He suggested that I paint the entire frame. He used sign
painters' enamel on his cars' wood.
I read in Alan Alderwick book ( How to Restore Wooden Body Framing ) that
paint should breath. The author said that wood that didn't breath would
excelerate rot. I called Pettit about the paints I was using. The
information I got was that their marine paints was a sealent. I was asked
the condition of the wood which I described as fairly fresh and in good
shape. He said that as long as the wood didn't stay wet that I should not
have a problem. He also said that the marine paint would seal air from
the wood, and that it was in constant use by boat builders.
I am trying to avoid the potential of destroying the wood by my efforts to
preserve it. My question to anyone out there who may have knowledge or
first hand experience in this matter are the following questions.
1. Has anyone used marine paints on wood body framing?
2. Was the paint the type that sealed wood from outside air?
3. How long ago was the painting done?
4. Have you noticed any rot in areas where paint was applied?
Again I have come up with a long drawn out list of question.
Morgan dittos,
David
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