I thought I would use Chris Acklams response as a basis so look for the
interspersed comments
>> We are soon to reach the top of the waiting list, and would like input
>> as to which of the many build options are worthwhile and which one can
>> live without. I realise that many choices will be made on subjective
>> basis, but since we have never owned a Mog before, we'd welcome
>> any views. The car has to be a four-seater, which nowdays sems to
>> mean the Plus 4.
>Hmm where to start? OK so these are all very much personal opinions and
>may well provoke strong rebuttals:
>Upholstery -you've probably chosen by now but if you're going for leather
>two points that may be useful: you can ask for contrasting piping which
>doesn't cost extra and looks good IMO, second, if you're going for a light
>colour be aware that it marks quite a bit - particularly from kids getting
>into the back seat. Getting the back of the front seats at least partially
>covered in carpet may be a practical option.
Leather does mark with high usage whatever the colour, but it still looks
good and generates a nice "patina" rather than a worn out look. Make sure
you "feed" it regularly. I use Conoly Hide food.
>Wire wheels: I had them and they take a lot of cleaning. Painted wire
>wheels can look very good though.
Standard powder coated wires look good on the plus 4. Spray on gunk and a
pressure hose does the cleaning. After 4 years and 35000 miles mine show
some stone chips. However I found that standard silver wheel spray covers
that up. Chrome ones rust, but I believe the factory now uses stainless
steel spokes so ask someone who has them (and uses his car).
>Luggage carrier: essential. Stainless steel for the long term. Can be
>added later
I couldn't agree more we get a whole family ( boys are 12 and 15 and getting
big) and 2 weeks luggage in HUY, and that doesn't mean a toothbrush and a
clean pair of pants!! See comment below about stainless steel.
>Reversing lights: if still an option, then essential
Agree with this too. They mount on the rear number plate valance.
>+8 type fog lights - don't bother. I could never align them properly so
>they always seemed to be searching for incoming bombers.
Worth thinking about, but not the standard ones as they give no more light
than the headlights. I smashed mine (don't ask how) and got a set of
small Cebie Tangos fitted. About 5inch dia they give huge amounts of light.
Note also that the factory standard wiring is fog lamp style and needs
changing to take notice of the dip switch.
>Door handles: I think essential
Only necessary if you plan to use the hood. The hood is more important in a
4 seater as the windscreen only keeps the front seat occupants dry!!
>Aluminium body: well worth it I think. There is a considerable school of
>thought that prefers steel wings (less likely to get star bursts from
>stones hitting the underside of the wheel arches).
I have aluminium bonnet and doors. These chafe badly. However if you are
not going for every day use the I agree that all alluminium is better as I
get rust trouble with the steel wings.
>Door mirrors: worth it, but the chrome can be poor
Jenolite gets the rust off!!
>Walnut dash: up to you. May add to later saleability
A sports car should be basic!!
>Radio: I couldn't hear it!
but it is very useful when cleaning the mud off the seats after the 2 boys
climbed in!!
>Extra tread rubber on running board: no opinion
Probably a good idea if high mileage, I find my heal rubs on the outer edge
and no amount of care makes much difference.
>Organ type accelerator pedal: well worth it. The standard revolving ball
>can be uncomfortable over long journeys and when wearing summer-weight
>shoes.
I use the standard one seems OK to me
>Clock: yes. Easier to cut the hole before the dash is fitted.
That way you can tell when you have spent too much time polishing it
>Cigar lighter: for all those accessories. Can be added later.
Like the lamp to help you see to change the tyre after the puncture :-)
>Scuttle roll bar: yes, gives extra rigidity and is more expensive to add
>later
Our local dealer won't quote for one without this fitting!!
>Koni shock absorbers back and front: again well worth it I found. Can be
>added later.
I run on the standard ones, on the basis of other peoples comments I agree.
>Perspex wind deflectors: good for the UK when the wind is cold. Can be
>added later.
I still have to get round to this.
>In general go for stainless steel accessories rather than chrome.
>If you can, go to the factory and walk around looking at the other cars
>there to see if they have anything that you would like.
Note that the after market price varies widely and often with no real
evidence of differences in quality. If you are in the UK go to MOG 97 and
compare them directly. (and get some price reductions in some cases)
>Hope such a long list hasn't put you off. Good luck.
>Chris Acklam (Ashford, Kent, England)
>1986 +8 (formerly 1982 +4 4str)
Some to add
Galvanised Chassis essential
Underseal/rust proofing is fine for a time, but the underseal cracks and
peals off especially under the wings where it gets hot in the sun. It also
tends to wash off if you are over zealous with the front suspension oilers.
Make sure you get the car rewaxed underneath regularly.
A note on Front suspension oilers. LEAVE THEM ALONE!! get under the car
with a grease gun (castrol molygrease is good) about once a month or every
1000 miles. Put in as much grease as you can until you see it coming out of
the top of the hub carrier between the bottom coil of the springs (and that
is a lot). Then wipe off the excess. If you doubt this look how close the
suspension is to the disks and wonder what would happen if excess oil were
to spray onto the brakes. Some people disconnect the oilers and add grease
nipples I am not convinced that that does anything unless you get the king
pins re-drilled to get the grease through.
Good luck from me as well and Happy Morganeering!!
Dave Vodden
Hampshire UK
1992 Plus 4 4 Str
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