-- [ From: Bob Nogueira * EMC.Ver #2.10P ] --
David:
Regarding your body tub and the back panel, The factory generally
skins the cars on the chassis. I would guess that the back panel was
left unfastened so it could be tacked down after the tub is mounted to
the chassis to prevent any buckling of the panel if the chassis is out
of alignment .
**** A word of caution here Most Morgans being restored have a bent
chassis especially if they have a lot of miles on them. The chassis
rails tend to bend up from the re axle back. Since it starts at the
crescent cut out for the axle it is not always apparent. Lay a six foot
long straight edge along the top of the chassis ( or run a strings )
and if the rails are bent up you will see it either side of the cut out
. The chassis should be flat from the front to the back .
Mounting a new tub to a chassis with bent rails will place stress on
the tub and could buckle the panels. This is not as great a problem if
the tub is built on the chassis since the tub is then built to fit the
bent chassis but can really throw off the body alignment or cause the
body panels to buckle or wood frame to break. The biggest problem
will be the doors not fitting into the hole for the door, The top of
the door will be much closer to the body than the bottom . I saw one
car which had such a bad bend the door would not open has it was jammed
into the hole.
As for the doors, I'm going to guess that you do not have the latch
attached.
The Morgan doors are know as " Slam and Jam" doors ( Factory term not
mine) . The "D' rubber block attached to the door should fit into the
cup on the jam and the distance of the door from the body should be
about 3/16th inch more at the top than at the bottom. The door then
twists, pivoting on the D block if you pull it in until the latch
catches. The gap is then even along the back of the door and there is a
outward pressure on the latch. This pressure is what keeps the door
from rattling as you drive down the street.
Note also that there is a rubber bumper located on the body cowl at the
highest point of the door ( anti-rattle stop). The door should press
against this bumper when fully closed.
I try to leave the doors half latched when in the garage so the "twist"
does not take a permanent set over time.
My observation is that most people don't change this "D' block very
often and as a result, the block is worn away allowing the door to
close uneven and all the weight of the door and riders arm to be taken
by the hinges. Since the block wears on the bottom I swap the left to
right and right to left every year and replace the block every other
year.
Hope this helps and keep us informed of how the restoration is going.
Bob Nogueira
- REPLY, Original message follows --------
> Date: Thursday, 18-Jul-96 03:05 AM
>
> From: David Pat Burket \ Internet: (pdburket@intrepid.net)
> To: Bob Nogueira \ PRODIGY: (NKED65A)
>
> Subject: Plus 4 Rebuild
>
> Hi out there in Ciber-Morganland,
> snip
In May I received a body tub from the factory. Upon receiving
> the body, I observed several things which I now have questions about.
>
> 1. The back panel came fitted to the timbers but not nailed or
screwed.
> Should attching panel to timbers be done after the body is
permanently
> mounted to the chassis? (faxed the Factory but no response). 2. Both
> doors fit well at all areas except that both doors set out from the
body
> from 1/4 to 3/8 an inch next to the elbow panel. Could shimming at
the
> hinges solve the problem? Any solutions out there ?
> Morganphile dittos
> David
>
>
>
-------- REPLY, End of original message --------
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