Hello Steve and other friends,
The asymmetrically oxidized valve head on the #2
cylinder ( http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0862.JPG ) led
me to assume that the discoloration was related to the
pressure leak. And so it seems is the case.
Here's a look at that valve from the stem end
http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0884.JPG . The dull,
black area is where the valve hasn't been closing
completely. The build-up on the back of the valve
head is normal for an old, rarely used,
long-since-rebuilt engine. Removing all this crud
will make a big difference in how the engine starts
and runs.
A further look at the valve seat confirms the problem
http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0885.JPG .
http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0886.JPG shows the
various components, minus the wire clip as it is
already in the Zip-loc baggie. The small black
half-circles are parts of the old oil seal. These
little o-rings get hard and crumble to pieces easily
once aged. New rings come with the fel-pro head set.
And finally, here is a picture of the tool I use to
remove the valves. It's a generic $15 valve spring
compressor from the auto parts store
http://www.aubard.us/MGB/HPIM0887.JPG . I rest the
head on a small block of wood within the combustion
space, to hold the valve closed against the
compressor's force. you can see it also in this
picture.
As the week wears on I'll work my way through the
head, removing valves and cleaning them up for
re-lapping onto their seats. While the head is off,
it is false economy to not rebuild the whole valve
train.
regards,
rick
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