Does sound like it, had that on my roadster as well as a Scimitar GTE and it
proved to be bearings both times. The GTE was an amusing story: It started
squeaking near the beginning of a 200 mile trip, so I was a bit nervous
about it seizing on me. The closer I got to home the happier I got, and I
was in time to get to the local dealer to get a new bearing. Then a few
miles from home the fanbelt broke. Hadn't had the car long and hadn't got
round to getting a spare yet, so it was on the phone to the AA (roadside
rescue). A van came out but none of their belts fitted although some were
quite close. He called up some other vans and eventually there were about
four of them, none of them with belts that would fit. Then I thought that
if we removed the adjuster bolt altogether we might be able to get the
alternator pushed in a bit more than the adjuster allowed, and so get one of
the belts on that were only a bit too small on. Sure enough - and it proved
to be one of the belts from the original van! By this time the parts place
was shut, so I went next morning. When he was pricing up the parts he said
"You should have come yesterday, they went up by 15% this morning".
When I changed the roadster bearings I found that the original shim set was
right, but you might like to get a couple extra each of the thin (.003) and
medium (.005) shims just in case. I'd strongly advise that you go with the
shims and internal spacer as it came from the factory, although some will
say you don't need them. Without them the inner bearings can spin on the
stub axle and damage it if not weld themselves to it, as well as the stub
axle being weaker without. Also replace the oil seal as I'm pretty sure
that has to come out to get the inner bearing outer race out.
Lever out the old oilseal and drift out the old outer races. Tap in the new
outer races - bearing surface facing outwards - using the old race as a
buffer between the hammer and the new race, keeping it as flat as possible.
Dry-fit the bearings first to determine the shims. Slip the roller cage and
inner race of the inner bearing into the inside of the hub cavity, no spacer
or shims at this stage, and cage and inner race of the outer bearing in from
the front. Fit the washer and nut and tighten carefully until the hub just
starts to get a bit stiff to turn, this seats the outer races. Remove nut,
washer, inner race and rollers, then fit the spacer, shims, outer rollers
and outer bearing inner race in that order, washer and nut. Now tighten
carefully, checking hub rotation as you go. If the hub gets stiff again you
need more shims. What you and now trying to do is find one set of shims
where there is just detectable wobble in the hub (make sure this isn't in
the kingpin, A-arms or anywhere else), and another set .001 smaller where
there is no wobble. You then take the smaller set and add a .003 to it to
get the correct .002 to .004 clearance. You can get sets of shims in .001
increments by juggling combinations of the three different sizes, you should
only need four of the .003 and a couple each of the .005 and .010 to achieve
this.
When you have the correct set take out the rollers and grease them. Inject
or press grease in with a finger tip from one side only until it comes out
the other side. Don't be tempted to press some in from both sides to speed
things up. Also fill the cavity in the oil seal with grease and its lip.
Don't put any more grease in the hub cavity than that. Refit, torque up to
40lb ft, then torque up some more until the first set of split pin holes
line up which should be before 70 lb ft - the maximum. Fit split pin.
PaulH.
----- Original Message -----
> More immediately, I am hearing a intermittent, steady squeaking that
> goes away when turning right and intensifies when turning left. I'm
> thinking wheel bearing, would that be accurate?
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