Is the fluid level dropping in the master? Make sure you haven't any leaks
for a start. But even with no visible leaks if the pedal slowly sinks to
the floor, or goes straight to the floor, it means the master seals have had
it. I don't think it is worth repairing the older single-circuit metal
reservoir masters, and certainly not slaves.
On an MGB the usual bleeding order is longest run first working towards the
shortest. Longest is the left-hand rear, as the rear flex hose is closer to
the right. Shortest would probably be front drivers side. With both my Bs
after conventional bleeding, even with a continual flow method like a
Gunsons EeziBleed, the pedal is still long initially and pumps up with a few
quick strokes, gong long again after just a few seconds. I have to get
someone to press hard on the pedal, while a rapidly open and shut each
caliper nipple. That always gets an extra lump or air out, and after that
they are fine.
PaulH.
----- Original Message -----
> thoughts on where to start? thinking rear cylinders first.
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