Matt:
If your fuel gauge is registering normally, I'd replace the temperature
sender.
If the fuel gauge is also acting wonky (technical term), then I'd
suggest the voltage stabilizer.
Temp gauges tend to be pretty dependable, whereas temp senders are prone
to drift and failure.
Make sure you get the correct sender for your year. The later sender
looks the same but will read hotter.
Kelvin Dodd
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mgs-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces@autox.team.net]
On
> Behalf Of Matthew Milkevitch
> Sent: Friday, June 22, 2007 8:37 AM
> To: mgs@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Mgs] Cooling issue, revisited
>
> Fellow Listers;
>
> Thanks to everyone for all the helpful comments and advice. It
appears
> that what I thought was an issue really wasn't, until yesterday....
>
> Yesterday I started up the B and took her out. Temp was around 85 F
> (with low humidity) here in Philadelphia. What occurred before didn't
> happen this time at all.
>
> First of all, it seemed like the car got to "N" on the temp gauge in
> about 3 minutes. Somehow, I don't think this is normal.
>
> Second, instead of just settling a little to the right of "N", the
temp
> needle went to exactly half-way between "N" and "H." I took it for a
> short drive, and it started to inch up toward "H." It stopped exactly
to
> the left of "H." Not on "H," just a hair-width to the left. It would
not
> come down off of "H" as I drove normally.
>
> I brought it home and let it cool down some. I then removed the
> radiator cap and started up the car. I confirmed that I was getting
flow
> through the radiator (I could see the coolant moving).
>
> I ran the car (at idle) for about 10 min. I measured the temperature
of
> the coolant using a candy thermometer (don't tell the wife!). I
topped
> out at 185 deg F. My thermostat is 165 F.
>
> No steam, no leaks anywhere.
>
> I am assuming I've either got a bad sender or gauge? Any thoughts
with
> this new information??
>
>
> Thanks for your input,
>
> Matt
> Willow Grove, PA
> 74 BGT
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