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Re: Bleed System

To: Daybell7@aol.com
Subject: Re: Bleed System
From: yd3@nvc.net
Date: Tue, 05 Dec 2006 14:24:00 -0600
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: mgs-3pco@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: mgs@autox.team.net
References: <bcf.839a88e.32a7186d@aol.com>
Reply-to: yd3@nvc.net
Sender: owner-mgs@Autox.Team.Net
<<<Snip>>>
What is the best system for one-man bleeding?
<<<snip>>>

Depends on the person. But, you can try the eze-bleed: a pressure
bleeding system, the foot valve on the end of the bleeder hose system,
the vacuum bleeder system, a reverse flow pressuer system like most
shops use, or the jar and tube with fluid in the jar. For the most part
on any vehicle I've used the jar and tube.

I have the vacuum bleader, but found that air passes between the bleeder
screw and housing so you always see bubbles in the tube.  The vacuum
bottle also almost always fills up before your done necessitating
emptying it. Then you must also make sure the master is always full.

So, I just use a hose with some fluid in a pint jar as a catch bottle.

1.  Fill the master,
2.  Place box wrench on bleeder nipple and then add the clear plastic
hose.
3.  Place other end of hose in about 1/2" of brake fluid, although if
your
    bleeding the whole system just start witht he bottle empty.
4.  Loosen the bleeder screw about 1/2 turn
5.  Pump the brakes SLOWLY. The return stroke is the most important as
that's
    when old fluid or air could be "sucked" back into the system.
6.  Do ten cycles and check the master's fluid level. If it's not too
low do a
    few more cycles. You can pump the master down to about 1/2" of the
bottom,
    but again, it's important to let the pedal up SLOWLY. Otherwise you
run the
    risk of sucking air into the system at the master too!
7.  Memorize, or write down the number of cycles you can go through
before the
    master needs refilling.
8.  Most of the time, if the bleeder is open far enough you can press
the pedal
    down with your hand rather than getting into the car.
9.  Even with this method, you will quite ofter see bubbles in discharge
tube
    as the fluid passing down due to gravity flow will "suck" air around
the
    bleeder screw.
10. Removing the screw starting and smearing RED BRAKE grease onto the
threads
    helps some to keep the air out.
11. AFter several pump cycles, close the bleeder screw and try the
brakes. 
    They should be HARD. Any sign of softness means there is still air
in the
    system.

Regards,
Blake

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