Paul:
My understanding was that the switches would hold in place so long as
they were under fluid pressure. The prime cause of them popping out was
low coolant level producing pockets of high pressure steam in the tank.
I'm very amenable to having my opinion changed based on other people's
experience.
Dave:
If the switch is stuck, it just needs a quick twist with a pair of vice
grips to break the rubber bond.
You will have to drain some coolant, if you don't want to make a mess
when the switch comes out.
The later switch has only one source, so the price is a lot higher. The
seal is slightly different, and the switch is mechanically located with
a spring clip. I haven't really been able to come up with what the
difference is between the two radiators as the opening is the same
diameter. If anyone knows, please post.
I'd suggest using a relay to operate the fans if you don't have one, as
any resistance in the circuit is going to reduce fan efficiency and
cause premature failure. The bearings in the fans cause enough load
problems as it is and are often the cause of switch failure.
Kelvin.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-mgs@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-mgs@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Paul Hunt
Sent: Tuesday, September 19, 2006 7:19 AM
To: DMatt21502@aol.com; mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Radiator cooling fan thermostat removal
The usual problem is these switches popping out simply under coolant
pressure! Has a PO fitted any kind of retainer? Maybe they glued it
in.
You probably will loose some coolant when you finally do get the switch
out.
Be careful with the different models, they may be different sizes. OTOH
maybe the later one does come with a retainer hence the added cost ...
and
benefit.
PaulH.
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