Larry:
I built a bracket that mounts to the alternator/generator mounting holes
and the lower engine mount hole. This is welded to a chunk of pipe that
fits into a standard engine stand.
This allows you to mount the engine sideways on the stand enabling you
to install the backing plate and flywheel.
At least it would if the stand did not become very tippy when the added
weight of those two components is stuck on the end of the engine.
The best way to mount the back plate is with the engine nose down, which
is not much of a problem until you try to get it back up again, at which
point the typical engine stand is going to go over with your shiny
engine on it. BTADT
Other pick up points may work better, but if the bracket is set up to be
balanced when rebuilding the engine, it is going to be out of balance
when you start to install the back plate and flywheel.
I copied this bracket from one we used when we were assembling engines
in Colorado. The bracket slipped into a pipe bolted to the workbench,
this way the engine was supported close to the bench and was at the
correct height and the assembly parts could be arrayed on the bench just
behind the engine. The back plate and flywheel were not installed with
the engine supported by the bracket.
Now I'm back to building the motor using a mounting bracket made from an
old rear plate, cut up enough to get the crank in. Once the engine is
built, I hang it from the engine hoist to install the rear plate and do
the final paint job. That's probably why the rear main seal leaked on my
last engine, as it is difficult to work against gravity to float the
rear plate into correct position.
There is a proper flywheel installation tool available from most good
tool sources. It has a double arm that slips over the flywheel teeth.
I've never had one available, so usually go with the long breaker bar
across two clutch bolts screwed partially into the bare flywheel. The
long end of the breaker is braced against the shop floor. It usually
takes one try before I remember which side to work against. It's a bit
aerobic, but if you brace against the engine you can get the bolt to
torque without much of a problem.
Kelvin.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-mgs@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-mgs@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Larry Colen
Sent: Monday, September 18, 2006 2:07 PM
To: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Engine stand
Is there a good way for mounting an MG blcok on an engine stand for
building a motor?
The obvious ways to do so tend to interfere with some critical phase
of the assembly, such as installing the backing plate or flywheel.
Has anyone ever built a jig that works well for holding the motor?
Maybe something that bolts on where the oil pan would?
Maybe something that attaches to the side, where the motor mounts
attach?
Likewise, is there an easily obtained tool that'll engage with the
teeth on the flywheel and bolt to the backing plate, to keep the crank
from turning when torquing down flywheel, crank or pulley bolts? I
always end up needing to find someone to hold a BUS (Big Ugly
Screwdriver) wedged into the teeth while I wrestle with the torque
wrench.
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