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RE: new points-won't start-Part 2

To: "MG list" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: new points-won't start-Part 2
From: "Gordie's Garage" <mg_garage@comcast.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2005 20:49:24 -0400
I'm looking at the dizzy from my BGT, it's out of the car (trans problem,
but that's another story).  Refer to Moss catalog for "distributor -
1962-'74".  You can see the nut on top, then the plastic insulating washer.
Then comes both leads, the metal strip, and another insulating washer.  With
the metal nut, you have to use the washer as shown in the pic.  It is not
just a flat washer but has a part that is between the post and the metal
strip.  You should notice that the rings on the leads are much larger than
the post and will fit outside of the extended part of the plastic washer,
just like the metal band.  I saw (and fixed) a car that used the fiber
washer and the metal strip had slid into contact with the post.
You're on the right track, just make sure to insulate the leads and metal
strip from the nut and post.  I'll bet your plastic nut/flat fiber washer
setup had a plastic post too.

Safety Fast!

Gordie Bird
'62 MGA
'67 MGBGT





>
> I've checked out a few things this afternoon.
> I checked the rotor and it will not turn by hand and the dizzy
> plate is well
> seated in the block, so the rotor should in the correct position since I
> took the dizzy mounting plate and all off (Bob suggested to look at this).
> David and Gordie suggested that the condenser wire cannot contact
> the nut on
> the points post. This may be the problem although I'll need help
> to solve it
> because:
> The OLD points had a plastic threaded "bolt" to attach the
> terminal lead and
> consenser lead to via a metal nut. The NEW points (Lucas also) has a metal
> bolt to attach the above to. The leads that attach to the bolt
> have an over
> sized hole that goes over the post and when you tighten them down there
> seems to be no way to determine if they are contacting the post. The metal
> band that leads to the points is isolated from the floor of the dizzy and
> has a plastic sleeve on top of it.
>
> It seems like I've had this same problem years back on the 79B
> and it was in
> the order of the leads/washers on the points terminal post.
> Here is the original order of things that I recorded when I took them off
> the dizzy and worked fine until a few weeks ago (from the top of the post
> downwards): nut, terminal and lead wire, condenser lead, FIBER
> WASHER, metal
> band that goes to the points. These are all mounted on a PLASTIC
> bolt. Thus
> the condenser lead and terminal lead were not isolated from each
> other, but
> were isolated from the metal band.
> I have an identical 25D dizzy out of a parts car and the order is: nut,
> terminal and lead, FIBER WASHER, condenser lead which TOUCHES the
> metal band
> that leads to the points.
> So I am confused about this. Which parts have to be electrically isolated
> from each other and how can I correct it with a metal post to connect
> everything to?
> Sorry to be so long winded, but hopefully this is detailed enough that
> someone can "fix me up".
> Thanks,
> Monte




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