Monte,
I'm thinking its something quite minor. I'd look at two things -
1. Condensor connection to points - I'm going to have to go by memory
here but its critical that the connection is configured correctly. I
believe there are two wires to the points post but the plastic washer is
designed so that they do not contact the post itself (it has a raised
point?). The wires sit atop each other and go first on the post, making
contact with the metal strip (whatever its called). The plastic washer
should keep the nut and the post from making contact with the wires. If
the nut does make electrical contact with your condenser wire, you will
get the symptoms you describe (no firing).
2. Check your distributor by putting the car at top dead center - then
make sure the rotor is poised to make connection with the #1 (front)
spark plug's connector in the cap.
David Councill
67 BGT
72 B
dcouncill@msubillings.edu
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-mgs@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-mgs@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of MonteMorris
Sent: Monday, July 18, 2005 12:52 PM
To: MG list
Subject: new points-won't start
Several weeks ago the 67B started sputtering and dying. After waiting a
few
minutes it would start and run fine, but die a little later. I
started/died/coasted 8 miles home. Several listers suggested it probably
was
the condenser, the rotor, or the coil, so today I replaced them all
along
with new points. I removed the 25D dizzy in order to do this (I didn't
loosen the clamp and remove the dizzy, I left the clamping bolts alone
and
removed the whole clamping plate from the block in order to preserve the
timing.
Now it won't start at all; I smell gas under the bonnet when I choke it,
but
it acts like it's not getting any fire.
A couple of questions before I go back out to the garage:
1. By removing the whole dizzy bracket, the dizzy will only go back
in
one way, correct? (It seems like I've read that the dog will not go back
in
180 degrees off). I did not turn the car over or rotate the flywheel
while
the dizzy was out, but I don't remember where the rotor was pointing
when I
removed the dizzy.
2. When installing the points, the points should be isolated from
the
condenser lead and the terminal and lead by a fiber or plastic washer,
correct? In other words the condenser lead and the terminal and lead are
not
isolated from each other, but only from the points?
3. If both of the above statements are correct, where do I now start
looking for the problem? I made the mistake of not starting the car
(it's
been sitting for two weeks) before I started replacing parts, so it may
not
have started in the first place, but I did drive it into the garage
under
it's own power two weeks ago. So I'm assuming it is something to do with
what I've done this morning.
Thanks,
Monte
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