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Re: sticking clutch

To: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: sticking clutch
From: ATWEDITOR@aol.com
Date: Mon, 7 Mar 2005 14:32:42 EST
Wow!  That's way dumber than anything I've ever done (to a  car).  It makes 
me feel so much better!
Thanks.
 
Jay Donoghue
 
 
In a message dated 3/7/2005 2:30:14 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
doddk@mossmotors.com writes:

Now the  stupid mechanic trick admittance.

1966 Land Rover, had rebuilt the  engine and taken a couple of months to
install it onto the gearbox.   Rebuilt hydraulics, but the clutch
wouldn't disengage.  Figured the  disc had rusted during the long
installation process.

Jacked up all  four wheels, and revved the engine up to about 3500 rpm.
All four oversize  wheels are booming and roiling.  Header uncapped, and
DGV Weber  snorting, within the confines of the garage, the noise is
deafening.   Slammed down on the clutch and brake pedals, with an
incredible screetching  of metal on metal the truck's wheels came to a
stop and the engine  died.  There was the smell of burning metal, hot oil
and the ticking  sound of metal cooling.  

Checking, I found that the slave  cylinder pushrod was bent almost
double, which was the first indication of  a problem.  After pulling the
transmission backwards (no mean feat on  a Landie), I found the center of
the clutch disc had welded itself to the  center of the pressure plate.
Checking carefully, it turns out I had put a  clutch disc in that was
slightly too large for the clutch cover.  It  looked fine till the
assembly was tightened,  pinching the disc.   That's when I figured out
that a 1/4" larger Austin-Healey disc wasn't the  best way to save a
couple of bucks.

Broke the weld with a hammer,  bought the correct disc.  Straightened the
pushrod, and the Rover  lived happily ever after.   




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