Firstly make sure the cable is not kinked and the run is as smooth as
possible and not being pushed to one side or the other by other components
*when it is pulled*. It is OK to rest on something when it is pushed back.
The reason the outer moves is that it is the *inner* that is connected to
the fixed point at the carb end and the outer that moves as you operate it.
The inner should be free to move in the inner with no rust or
kinks, and lightly oiled. With the knob pulled half-way the outer should
make an angle of 90 degrees with the operating lever at the carb end. This
to make sure that you don't get an acute angle at either end of the travel
which makes it hard to pull. All the above should be done with the choke
interconnecting rod clamps slackened. Then tighten the clamps so that with
the choke knob pulled 1/4" only the fast idle cams have moved and the jets
are just about to start moving. Set the clamps so that as the knob is
pulled further both jets start to move at the same instant. Back at the
1/4" position, and with a warm engine, adjust the fast idle screws so that
the engine runs at about 1000 to 1200 rpm and the carbs are drawing an equal
amount of air, as judged with a Carbalancer, Unisyn, or length of tubing and
the Mk! ear. Make sure that when the choke is repeatedly pulled out and
pushed back the jets and fast idle cams always fully return to their proper
resting position. Lightly oil the cams, bushes etc.
Other carb adjustments at http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/wn_fuelframe.htm and
click on 'SU Carbs'.
PaulH.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ray Graham" <rgraham@sigecom.net>
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 16, 2005 1:07 AM
Subject: Choke Cable on 66
> Any advice on how to correctly adjust the choke cable at the carbs on my
> 66 B?
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