I am taking the opportunity to check out the front suspension on the A coupe
- I am replacing brake hoses as a matter of course, and doing the usual
checking and greasing.
A couple of observations.
I built the suspension on this car in 1979 using factory rubber inner A arm
bushes, properly installed with no preset (that is, you ensure the suspension
is at ride height before tightening the nuts). Notwithstanding all the talk
one hears of poor bush quality, these were still in good shape! I am still
wondering if the original factory rubber was a harder more durable type than
the
current offerings, as I have seen new rubbers, properly installed, commit
hara kiri in a very short time.
I am installing some negative camber A arms and so used the MGB GT V8
metalastic bushes this time around, but it was interesting that the old ones
had
stood up so well. The A arms (manufactured by B&G?) BTW, did not quite line up
the hole for the sway bar link with the spring pan, so I had to slightly
enlarge the spring pan hole. Tsk, tsk.
As I've had a factory special tuning front bar, brand new, hanging on the
wall for 30 years, I figured I might as well fit it. Anyone know if the stock
MGB links will work if you don't remove the front MGA frame extension, but
just mount the cages against the lower surface of it? If the angle proves too
acute, I'll have to shorten the links - no big deal.
Had to replace the front shocks, as they refused to work satisfactorily once
topped up. Now I know that the bodies were dropped onto the frames after
the driveline was installed, but I thought that this only caused problems in
the Twincam when you needed to remove things. I'd forgotten that on the
pushrod
cars the inner fender is a very slight bit too low to allow the front shock
to be removed over the studs without bending the sheet metal up a hair, at
least on some cars. I'll tweak it back in place before spraying the engine
compartment. Something you don't notice when you use bolts instead of studs on
the race car.
Noticed a bent mounting bolt on the inner A arm pivot to frame mount. These
take a lot of force, so I'll replace them with grade 8 hardware. I always
check the tightness of these on the race car as they tend to come loose.
The old double hammer trick failed in removing the tie rod end from the
steering arm - must be losing my touch. At least the application of the giant
pickle fork didn't harm the grease boot as it so easily can.
Found the lower join of U joint to lower steering column was loose. Couldn't
tighten it - the U joint still moved a bit on the splines. Removed the bolt
and found that it was special - and threaded only a short way down. Figured
it was bottoming before it could pinch the U joint on the steering shaft so
replaced it with another bolt threaded further down and that seemed to work.
Now
if I can just get the adjustable upper column out without resort to dynamite
- it seems too have become permanently bonded to the outer column.
Final discovery - the car has lasted better than the owner. 25 years later,
a few hours spent laying under the car on cold concrete leaves the owner with
some serious aches and stiffness, and I find that forgetting a tool and
having to get up and get it is much more of an ordeal than it used to be.
Bill
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