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Bearing Replacement

To: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Bearing Replacement
From: Timfboston@aol.com
Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2004 11:39:04 -0400
I have been obsessing over my oil pressure since last months thread on the 
subject.  I have put more miles on my daily driver '71 MGB than most people 
would believe, but never knew/thought to do the "recommended 30,000 mi big end 
bearing and 50,000 main bearing/thrust washer replacement. (until now)  Those 
mile markers have come and gone many, many miles ago.  The oil pressure was 
always 75 running warm 50 idle, until after I put  a new clutch on this winter. 
 After I got the car back together I did not have oil pressure. (no movement on 
the gauge)  Obviously an elec. problem caused by getting the wires out of the 
way while putting the engine back in.  But after I played withe the wires and 
started getting a reading it was still low(25).  Changed the Fram oil filter 
and got a higher reading 65 on start up and 50-55 warm. (did not know so many 
people had problems with Fram oil filters until checking the archives)  I 
wonder if a bad filter could cause damage?

Regardles, I plan on trying to get back up to the upper limit on the oil 
pressure again.  So here is what I plan to do:1. Raise the front of the car on 
jack stands2. Unbolt the engine mounts and raise the engine to get to the oil 
pan bolts3. Remove oil pan
Unsure of the following.  Any advice/recommendations would be greatly 
appreciated.
4.  ?Unbolt/remove and replace the big end bearings one at a time.  (How do you 
get to the top half of the bearing?
5. Can you replace the main bearings/thrust washers with the engine still in 
the car?  Is there a special tool?  Where would I get one?  If I can't replace 
with the engine still in the car, can I at least replace the bottom half of the 
bearings?  Or should I just leave it alone?
Anything else I should do (while leaving the engine in)?
Things to buy?New oil pan gasketBig end bearingsMain bearingsThrust washers
Thanks 
TimNew Racing Green 1971 MGB 





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