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Re: SCCA Solo II in a "B" or a Midget?

To: "TJ Tryon, Jr." <tjt@insightbb.com>,
Subject: Re: SCCA Solo II in a "B" or a Midget?
From: "Larry Daniels" <ladaniels@sbcglobal.net>
Date: Tue, 11 May 2004 00:15:12 -0500
From: "TJ Tryon, Jr." <tjt@insightbb.com>
Subject: SCCA Solo II in a "B" or a Midget?


OK, time for some fun.  Anyone here race their MG in solo II?  Stories and
suggestions would be appreciated.

Any thoughts on the following:

1.  Battery on the B is not really strapped down.  Is it good enough that a
tie down strap hold it down more securely?

2.  Can stock wire wheels handle the pressure, or are the mini-lites a must?

3.  I'm assuming that a roll bar is mandatory on a convertible (though the
rules didn't say)?  How about a fiberglass hard top?

4.  Is the convertible top tonneau cover enough to "secure" the top, per the
rules, or do you need to remove the top/frame?

Any other thoughts, tips, stories, etc?  I'm sure I am not the only one
interested in hearing...

**************************

TJ,

I autocrossed a 240Z for many years in the 70's and a Formula 440 in the
90's after I quit road racing.  During that time I saw a few cars roll over.
Don't let slow speeds fool you -- I've seen a car roll at a speed that I
could run faster than (when I was a lot younger).  When you get tired of the
low-speed events, you will probably want to run some faster ones.  I have
run over 120 mph in an autocross.  There is no excuse for lax car safety at
speeds anywhere near that.  Without a rollbar in a convertible the only
things touching pavement when the shiny side is down and the grimy side up
are the windshield and your head.  Now what do you think about running w/o a
rollbar?  A fiberglass hardtop won't help much if you go over.  I don't have
a hardtop, but I wonder if it would add enough structural rigidity to make
up for the extra weight?

I don't pretend to know about the relative strength of wires, but I do
recall seeing a Corvette tear the center right out of a steel rim on a
high-g turn running on a banked oval.  That's not an area I'd skimp on.

The quick back and forth turns in your first chicane will toss that battery
around pretty good.  Moss sells battery hold down brackets.  They are cheap
and a wise investment.  If a half-assed attempt at strapping it down with
something less doesn't pass tech, you will be parked.  (They are always
looking for course workers, but it ain't as much fun as driving.)  If you
just compete in small local club events, you may be able to get away with
more than in bigger SCCA events.  It always seemed that SCCA tech people
loved exerting their power.

As for tips, walk the course at least once before the event starts if they
allow it.  Pay close attention to where it goes.  I have seen countless guys
get all of their runs in and never get the course right.

Start out with a fairly high tire pressure because your runs are too short
to get any appreciable heat in your tires.  I started in the 40 PSI range
with the 240Z and adjusted it from there to get the car to work the way I
wanted it to.  I ran 12/12.5 PSI in the F440 while road racing, but went up
3-4 PSI for autocrossing.  I never ran an MGB, but I would think you will
probably need pressures nearly as high as the 240Z.  Others on the list can
help more there.  The Midget would need a little less, but you get the idea
between cold and hot tires.

Have fun -- that's what it's all about.

Larry Daniels
79 MGB LE





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