I had this with my '66 Ford Cortina MKI.
Several cooling hoses started to leak and yes most of the leaking liquid
went directly into the distributor.
Cheers,
Hans
----- Original Message -----
From: "Thomas Pokrefke" <pokrefke1@comcast.net>
To: "Christian, Wellner L. CIV COMNAVAIRSYSCOMPATUXENTRIVERMD AIR 4.1.1.4"
<wellner.christian@navy.mil>
Cc: <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, January 09, 2004 2:37 AM
Subject: RE: 1974 MGB Died While Driving
> I had the same problem with mine many moons ago. It turned out the heater
> valve was leaking into the distributor.
>
> Thomas Pokrefke
> 1970 MGB
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-mgs@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-mgs@autox.team.net]On
> Behalf Of Christian, Wellner L. CIV COMNAVAIRSYSCOMPATUXENTRIVERMD AIR
> 4.1.1.4
> Sent: Thursday, January 08, 2004 6:10 AM
> To: MG Digest (E-mail)
> Subject: 1974 MGB Died While Driving
>
>
> Group,
>
> On Tuesday afternoon, after prolonged cruising at around 4200 RPM, car
> started to break down when RPM dropped below approx 3000. Above 3000 RPM,
> not even a miss - ran perfect. Eventually I let the RPM drop too much and
> the car died on a CD Beltway off ramp. Would crank fine (fast) but no
> start. Acted like either out of gas or absolutely no spark. While on
ramp,
> checked:
> Fuel Pump (prime suspect) wasn't clicking. Disconnected outlet line at
> pump, applied power and pump clicked away and dumped a bunch of gas on
> ground.
> Removed fuel filter (to eliminate filter blockage as possible cause). No
> effect.
> Removed carb bowl vent lines to check for stuck needle valve. No
overflow.
> Spark at coil - good.
> Fuel filter had sediment in it, so I removed the filter. No effect on
> starting.
> Point gap - fine. Points showed no pitting.
> Distributor rotor turned when car pushed in fourth gear w/ clutch out.
> Carb oil level good.
> Raised carb pistons while cranking to richen mixture. No effect.
>
> Car towed to Saturn dealer (where I was originally headed). New fuel pump
> installed - no effect. They managed to start the car using ether, but
below
> around 3000 RPM engine would not run. No difference whether engine was
hot
> or cold (cold engine started fine using choke and ether).
>
> Bottom Line: Engine runs PERFECT at high RPMs, but absolutely will not
run
> below 3K RPM. Once its been below 3K RPM, acts like someone turned off
the
> ignition switch - gas pedal has absolutely no effect.
>
> Engine rebuilt completely stock, has 6K miles since re-build, and was last
> tuned 5K miles ago (about six months ago). Tune up included a valve
> adjustment. Carbs re-synchronized and mixtures adjusted Sunday.
>
> Question: If I remember correctly, there is some kind of oil pressure
> triggered anti run-on valve on this car. Is the oil pressure switch (for
> the anti run-on valve) the one on the passenger side at the end of a short
> hose ???? If yes, is the switch activated by completing the ground
circuit
> or by breaking the ground circuit ??? I want to by-pass the switch in
case
> its some how activating at too high an oil pressure.
>
> Background - Previously have had intermittent problem where after
prolonged
> (30 seconds) of full throttle acceleration, engine would start breaking
> down. After letting off gas pedal, engine would idle. Would not
accelerate
> without breaking down until about 2-3 minutes of very light load
operation.
> Prolonged accelerating using 2/3 throttle never caused this problem.
>
> Any other ideas ????? Anything at all. I need to get this car home and
> its about a $200 tow job away.
>
> Thanks In Advance, Skip
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