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Fw: 16 miliamps drain - a verification - great site

To: MGs@autox.team.net
Subject: Fw: 16 miliamps drain - a verification - great site
From: Hans Duinhoven <h.duinhoven@planet.nl>
Date: Fri, 02 Jan 2004 22:05:57 +0100
Rejected earlier:


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Hans Duinhoven" <h.duinhoven@planet.nl>
To: "Rick Lindsay" <rolindsay@stoolhead.com>; "Paul Hunt T"
<paul.hunt1@blueyonder.co.uk>; <"mgs@autox.team.net"@m1.name2host.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 31, 2003 5:37 PM
Subject: Re: 16 miliamps drain - a verification


> Thanks Rick,
>
> I know a good shop nearby.
> I hate to pay a lot of money, where I can see the parts do cost little -
see
> Moss website.
>
> While wondering over the web Ifound a super site where many very clear
> picture and stories are published:
>
> http://www.mgcars.org.uk/electrical/alternator.html
>
> For anyone who likes good info...
>
> Now to dinner and firecrackers!
>
> Cheers,
>
> Hans
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Rick Lindsay" <rolindsay@stoolhead.com>
> To: "Hans Duinhoven" <h.duinhoven@planet.nl>; "Paul Hunt T"
> <paul.hunt1@blueyonder.co.uk>; <"mgs@autox.team.net"@m1.name2host.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, December 31, 2003 5:22 PM
> Subject: Re: 16 miliamps drain - a verification
>
>
> > Happy New Year, a little early, Hans!
> > It sounds like you are on the way to success.  The
> > thick brown wire from the alternator to the
> > starter is there to carry the charging current
> > from the alternator back to the battery.  The
> > starter is just the common connecion point.  The
> > smaller brown wire is typically the power to the
> > stator (...or is the the field?) winding in the
> > alternator.   The non-brown wire is for the
> > charge failure light, as you surmise.
> >
> > Power is delivered to the rest of the car via the
> > connections at the starter.  There will be
> > another wire at the starter that activates the
> > solonoid to engauge the starter.
> >
> > If all the brown wires are connected common at
> > the starter, and removing them from the alternator
> > end removes the load, the problem almost has to be
> > at the alternator.
> >
> > Check with an independent auto repair shop to see
> > if there is an alternator/starter repair shop
> > nearby.  Many of the internal parts are universal
> > and most shops can rebuild an alternator without
> > even knowing what it fits.  I had the alternator
> > rebuilt for my Ferrari but told the shop it was
> > from a Fiat.  That probably saved me US$100!  And
> > I paid about US$60 for the rebuild.
> >
> > Good luck!
> >
> > Rick
> >
> > >
> > > 1 RESULTS OF TROUBLESHOOTING
> > >
> > > Well I've done many measurements - taken all direct connected links
(the
> > > brown wire connections) apart one by one and even all links to the
> > steering
> > > column, but the 16 ma current remained.
> > >
> > > The 1st measurement I did however = disconnecting the alternator had
> > > immediate result.
> > > The alternator is I think the three wire type:
> > > 1 thick brown to starter motor
> > > 2 less thick brown to the same
> > > 3 dual brown - yellow wires connected to eachother (I think this goes
to
> > the
> > > idiot light)
> > >
> > > The 16 mA current remains untill the thick brown wire is disconnected,
> the
> > > others are housed into one connector which must be fitted after the
> thick
> > > brown one is connected.
> > > Is the conclusion right the alterantor's diode block is suspected?
> > > I've desoldered the wires to the rectifier block and measured each
diode
> > and
> > > all appeared to have similar current characteristics.
> > > I did the same with all wires connected and again characteristics were
> of
> > > course different, but very much alike when diodes are compared.
> > >
> > > Is such a leaking current measurable with a multi-meter, or is is
> special
> > > equipment needed?
> > > My meters normally are used for electronics...
> > >
> > > 2 REPAIR METHOD
> > > Today I phoned my regular MG repair and parts shop.
> > > They do not offer separate parts for the alternator, but offer
exchange
> > > units.
> > > Well as one can figure out, this will be costy.
> > > I can hunt for other sources later this week.
> > > What are the list's experiences fixing the alternator itself or go for
> an
> > > exchange unit...?
> > >
> > > TIA.
> > >
> > > Cheers,
> > >
> > > Hans
> > >
> > > 71 BGT in rest while snow is coming during the year changing...





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