Just a quick note from personal experience.
On Nov 7, 2003, at 12:14 PM, Dodd, Kelvin wrote:
> The current draw for regular H4 halogen headlights is not much more
> than the less efficient sealed beam units. I have never run into
> anyone having problems with overloading the wiring or switches if they
> were working ok with the original lamps.
When my old non-halogen sealed beams burned out, I replaced them with
the bog-standard GE halogen equivalent units. I didn't notice much
difference in brightness, but the light seemed "whiter" (this could be
because they were new).
However, part of going with halogen was to get more light in front of
me when I am on our (unlit) 2-lane roads at night.
I am still using the same bulbs, but converted to a relay system.
Instant gratification. Use high-quality relays (mine are Cibie), and
follow the directions on Daniel Stern's website (as somebody else
already posted). This is a cheap and quick job, and well worth it.
The only time I am dissatisfied with my lights now is when the
snow/road muck builds up in front of them and the light is
diffused--hardly the fault of the light.
> I would suggest if you care enough to install better lights, also take
> the time to ensure that all the wiring contacts and grounds are in
> good condition.
As a result of my personal experience, I would recommend fixing the
wiring *first*, and see what the sealed-beam units can do with more
current. If they still aren't adequate, start looking for bulb
replacements.
--
Aaron Whiteman ('75 B, lights that work well enough in the Palouse)
Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from
magic. -- Arthur C. Clarke
|