Simon,
I have had the best luck by using giving a liberal dose of liquid wrench or
PB Blaster to the studs and tapping them lightly with a hammer to help the
liquid get into the threads. I use a stud remover which I purchased from
Sears about 40 years ago to remove the studs from flathead Fords. They
still have them as I was looking for one not long ago with a smaller
diameter for smaller studs but only found one similar to the one that I
already have.
One trick that seems to work is to first tighten a little bit then loosen.
If the studs feel too tight to get off without breaking, I would give them
another bath in liquid wrench with more tapping and let them set overnight.
When all else fails, you might try a propane torch as this will sometimes
burn out the crud in the threads that are holding everything too tight. I
would not get the stud glowing red, maybe a little red if just very hot
doesn't work.
By the way, the stud remover is a circular cylinder about 2 1/2 inches
around and 3/4 inch thick with a 1/2 inch socket opening that tightens an
offset knurled piece inside the tool that tightens on the stud as you turn
the ratchet or breaker bar and hopefully loosens the stud.
Best of luck to you as I know from personal experience what a pain in the
arse it is to drill out a broken stud and hope an easy-out will work.
Dave 72 B
----- Original Message -----
From: "Simon Matthews" <simon_atwork@hotmail.com>
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, September 21, 2003 3:59 PM
Subject: Removing head studs -- advice needed.
I have jsut removed my 57 MGA's head because of a significant water leak.
Now, to remove the studs. They appear to be stuck in position. Before I
start applying force and break them off, can someone tell me the best way to
loosen them?
Heat? If so, how much: propane or MAPP? SHould I get them hot enough to
glow? Near the block?
All advice warmly welcomed!
Simon
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