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Re: How to best clean twin SU carbs?

To: Max Heim <mvheim@studiolimage.com>
Subject: Re: How to best clean twin SU carbs?
From: Tab Julius <tab@penworks.com>
Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2003 16:06:04 -0400
This sounds like it's a good place to start without disassembling the whole 
fuel system.

As far as your adding threadlocker to prevent a recurrence, the only 
threadlocker I'm familiar with is an adhesive.  I take it that's not what 
you're referring to?  If it is, what do you apply it to?  Otherwise, what 
product are you talking about?  I don't think I want silicone in there, and 
I'm pretty sure an adhesive is the opposite of what I want, right? :)

Thanks

At 02:33 PM 9/19/03, Max Heim wrote:
>This symptom is consistent with a sticking needle valve. Here is what I have
>done in similar circumstances. Remove the top of the float bowl -- the
>dangling object is the float. Make sure it is not filled with fuel (thereby
>not floating). Flip it up and down and observe the action on the needle
>valve. Blow through the fuel inlet with the float in the up and the down
>position, and you will get an understanding of how it works. Check the float
>height as described in the manual. Remove all the fuel from the bowl with an
>eyedropper or something similar, and clean out any remaining grunge with a
>q-tip.
>
>The float height adjustment is the only part of this that can affect
>operation, so don't worry about "screwing up" your state of tune.
>
>I have done this on the side of the road, discovering that the needle valve
>had come "unscrewed" and had descended, jamming the float. Easily set right
>-- later I went back and added some threadlocker to prevent a recurrence.




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